 |
| Petite France, Strasbourg, France |
cities/ towns in the Alsace region were of mix culture of French and German. In the history, these towns were disputed by France and Germany. Strasbourg became a French city in 1681. After the Franco-Prussian war in 1871, it became part of Germany. Claimed back by the French in 1918, end of World War I. Strasbourg was German again before the World War II in 1940, for a few years. Finally settled under the French government from 1944, end of World War II. Not only the city is covered by the churches of Catholics and Protestants, it also houses the largest Islamic worship place, the Strasbourg Grand Mosque.
We arrived Strasbourg the night of 29 December 2019. We had stayed in this medieval city till 02 January 2020. We had stayed in an apartment about 20 km away from the city centre. Public transport stop and supermarket was 400 meters away. We did not need to eat out, we cooked the food we wanted to eat. My hubby was very tired driving the day before, he took a rain check on our Strasbourg day on 30 December 2019. With my 2 girls, we left about noon time, after our home cooked brunch. We took the Tram A bound to Parc des Sports and alight after 3 stops at Langstross Grand'Rue stop. a total of 13 minutes travel including the walk from the apartment to the tram station.
Strasbourg is a prefecture located in the northeast France in the Alsace region border with Germany. It's equivalent Old town, which I think very large Old town, lies in the Grande Île (Large Island) encircled by the River Ill and the Canal du Faux-Rempart at the other side. The island was classified as World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1988. Most of the Strasbourg's major attractions are in the historic core, to name a few, those we had visited: the amazing Gothic Cathédrale de Notre-Dame de Strasbourg (Strasbourg Cathedral), the fairytale half-timbered houses in the Petite France district along the River Ill, the three Pont Couvert (Covered Bridges) with fortified towers and where the River Ill split, join again towards the Vauban Dam, the beautiful squares surrounded by medieval buildings and where the Christmas markets are placed during the advent and many more. More so, Strasbourg is the Christmas capital in Europe. It was not difficult to go around this large island, Grande Île. The sites of Strasbourg Christmas market are all situated within the Grande Île.
 |
| Place Gutenberg, Strasbourg, France |
On our way to the Strasbourg Cathedral, we cannot miss the Place Gutenberg. The square is surrounded by buildings in the medieval French and German architectural style with the statue of the German printing pioneer Johannes Gutenberg in the center. There are also Christmas markets at Place Gutenberg but were already closed when we were there. Check out late the white naked tree. It's blue at night.
Approaching the Cathedral, through the narrow street of des Orfèvres, lined with houses and buildings beautifully decorated with stuffed animals hanged from the window. I will show you later the photo when we came back here after sunset.
On the north-west of the strasbourg Cathedral, on the Place de la Cathédrale, is one of the famous buildings of Strasbourg, the Kammerzell House (Alsatian: Kammerzellhüs, French: Maison Kammerzell and German: Kammerzellhaus). Originally built in 1427, Kammerzell is in late Gothic architectural style and a well preserved medieval building. Currently use as restaurant.
Lined with the Baccarat chandeliers is the street of Rue des Hallebardes.
 |
| Strasbourg Cathedral, France |
The Strasbourg Cathedral is in the north of Grande Île (Large Island), the historic centre of Strasbourg. Designed in late Gothic architectural style. 142 meters in height, 332 steps to the viewing deck, the cathedral is one of the highest buildings in the world. It was built with pinkish sandstone quarried from the Vosges mountain. Literary masters: Goethe and Victor Hugo were amazed with this extraordinary masterpiece- intricate details of the façade, to quote Hugo, "The entire front of the church is a clever poem. But the true triumph of this Cathedral is the spire. It is a veritable tiara of stone with its crown and its cross. It is a gigantic and delicate marvel.". Check out later, the famous 18 meter tall astronomical clock inside the Cathedral
It was around noon when we got here. The place was already packed. All the Christmas wooden food stalls at the Place De La Cathédrale were busy as most asked for something that could warm them, the temperature started getting low. We could smell the Vin Chaud (Alsatians Mulled Wine) and the local delicacies. There were the traditional manneles (milk rolls shaped as little men and chocolate chips as their eyes) and the kugelhopf, a yeast based cake like the Italian panettone. Kugelhopf (Gugelhupf in German) is popular in Central Europe with slight variations. There were also pretzels, popular snack in the German speaking country like Austria and Germany.
The queue to go inside the cathedral was very long. We did the visit before the sunset.
Model timbered houses sold at the Christmas markets in Strasbourg.
Another line of stalls in the Place De La Cathédrale are local handicrafts. They made sure the products were not made from other country. I have an Eiffel tower model bought at the Disneyland Paris in 2013 that was made in China. That was a long time. Maybe the whole France would like to offer locally made items now.
We were off to Petite France. For those who are interested in museums, the Rohan Palace and other important museums are just 5 minutes on foot from the Cathedral. I do love museums too, but not on that day. We wanted to see more of the Large Island before the sunset, normally in this season sets at 4pm.
We stopped at the Pont Saint Thomas. a bridge named after the nearest church, Saint Thomas Church (French: Église Saint-Thomas, German: Thomaskirche).. Latter is a Protestant Cathedral and the only Hall Church (with nave and side aisles...) in the Alsace region.
Saint Thomas Bridge (Thomasbruck in Alsatianis), built in 1841, is one of the oldest cast iron bridges preserved in France. It crosses the River Ill in the neighborhood of Finkwiller.
From this bridge, we could show you partly exploring the Grande Île on foot.
Opposite the Saint Thomas church, across the River Ill is the Saint-Louis Church of Strasbourg (Église Saint-Louis de Strasbourg), a catholic church in baroque architectural style located in the Finkwiller district, rue Saint-Louis. The beautiful medieval building on the right houses a restaurant of French cuisine. I read the food was good but the service took more than an hour or two. With very little time we had in every city we were visiting, we did not have the two hours to spend in the restaurant.
View from Pont Saint Thomas towards east of the River Ill. We could see the spire of the Saint Nicholas Church, Strasbourg ( Église Saint Nicolas). Pont St Nicolas is the bridge connects to Rue de la Douane. The next bridge is the Pont du Corbeau. From the said bridge towards Rue du Vieux-Marché-aux-Poissons is where you will see the arch Strasbourg, Capitale de Noël sign, the Porte d'entrée de la Capitale de Noël (entry to the Christmas capital). You will appreciate this sign at night fall when the city lights up. Just so you know, the arch sign is 5 minutes on foot to the Strasbourg Cathedral. From the arch, go straight towards Rue de l'Étal to the Place Gutenberg and in less than half kilometer, you will not miss the gigantic Christmas tree at the Place Kleber. Latter is located in the heart center of the Grande Île (Large Island). That would be the destination later. This time, we were going to the district of the Petite France which is at the opposite side, towards west. Hope I am not giving you a complicated directions.
 |
| River Ill in the neighborhood of Finkwiller, Strasbourg, France |
View from Pont Saint Thomas to the west side of the River Ill, where we passed through to the Petite France. district. The first building on the south side, at the Quai Finkwiller, is the Centre de Secours Strasbourg Finkwiller (Fire station in Strasbourg at Finkwiller)
 |
| River Ill left bank, Strasbourg, France |
We descended to the riverside along the waterways of River Ill. The navigation channel of the River Ill starts from where the European Parliament is located. It will split into 3 at the Petite France district and join again to pass through the Barage Vauban to Ostwald. We just walked to Barage Vauban though.
The first building in light colour is the Centre de soins infirmiers des Diaconesses - Centre-ville (Nursing Health Centre in Strasbourg). Next to it, the one like a school in Hogwarts 😀 is the École maternelle publique (Saint-Thomas Public Primary School Saint-Thomas)
 |
| view of the Pont Saint Martin from the River Ill banks, Strasbourg, France |
The next bridge from the Pont Saint Thomas going west is the Pont Saint Martin. We were mesmerized by the half-timbered houses on the water's edge.
 |
| view from Pont Saint Martin, half-timbered houses on water's edge, Strasbourg, France |
You could take a break after a long walk at the Rue des Moulins. The street is lined with restaurants of Alsatian cusine, housed by the historical half-timbered buildings. Pont Saint Martin is like the entry to the Petite France. There is a narrow passage to go through leads to Place Benjamin Zix
 |
| Petite France, Strasbourg, France |
On the right bank of the River Ill is the Quai des Moulins. At the other side is the Place Benjamin Zix
At the farther end is an interesting bridge, Pont du Faisan. We were now at the Petite France district. This part of Strasbourg is somehow romantic with the bridges and canals like the River Seine in Paris. It's like a fairytale storybook as well with the enchanting half-timbered building along the river and lined in the narrow streets.
The district was not named Petite France for representing the smaller version of the landmark of France, Seine River or for its historical buildings. In the 15th century, some French soldiers contacted venereal disease or syphilis during the Italian wars. The disease was referred to as the French disease. Those contacted were isolated in the district of the tanners' houses, The people in the neighborhood referred to the hospital as Petite France until the whole district was named Petite France.
 |
| Picturesque street of Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes, Petite France, Strasbourg, France |
Petite France forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site designated in 1988 to the Grande-Île (Grand Island). Cobbled stone street of Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes is lined with picturesque medieval half-timbered houses The 16th century Tanners’ House (Maison des Tanneurs) , the first on the left, was listed Historical Monument in 1928. Looked up, the three kings were staring at me. The Tanners' House was the former headquarters of the Tanners guild and at present houses a restaurant.
Christmas Markets are placed in the Place Benjamin Zix. During the advent the place is commonly referred to as the “Three Kings Market” (le marché des Rois Mages).
 |
| Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes lined with half-timbered houses , Strasbourg, France |
Wandering the street of Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes was like inside the Fairytale storybook. It was amazing this place was once smelly and now a tourist destination. Petite France, prior to the disease issue, was the site of the fishermen, millers and tanners. Most of these beautiful half-timbered buildings house restaurants serving the traditional Alsatian food (from the best of French and German culinary cuisines) and local wine. Strasbourg is the capital of the Alsace region, the important wine and beer-producing region in France.
The buildings in the Petite France district mirrored in the water. At the end of the stretch of Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes is the Pont Couverts (Covered Bridges)
 |
| Pont Couverts (Covered Bridge), Strasbourg, France |
Getting around the historic center of Strasbroutg, Grande Île (Large Island), we started at the Strasbourg Cathedral. We took the tram from our apartments at the Rue des Combattants Africains, alighted at Langstross station and walked to the Cathedral. From the Cathedral, we walked down to Pont Saint Thomas then descended to the River Ill bank and continued to walk to Pont Saint Martin. there was a narrow passage to the Place Benjamin Zix. Strolled the street of Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes from the Maison Des Tanneurs. The end of the Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes is the western end of the Grande Île (Large Island) which is at the Pont Couverts (Covered Bridge).
For those who are coming from the Strasbourg station, I suggest to start the tour from Pont Couvert. From the main railway station, walk southeast for about 10 minutes to the Pont Couvert.
 |
| View of the three Pont Couverts (Covered Bridges) and the Four towers from the terrace of Barage Vauban |
Pont Couverts (Covered Bridges) is a three connected bridges and four fortified towers spanning the River Ill. This is where the River Ill splits into channels that flow through the Tanner's district (in the middle ages), at present, known as the Petite France. The bridges began construction in 1230 and were opened in 1250. They were used for defense until 1690. The bridges were covered with wooden roof to protect the defenders stationed but the roofs were removed in 1784. Pont Couverts remains its use as a bridge and it is still called Pont Couverts (Covered Bridge).
There were five fortified towers built to support the Pont Couverts. One was burnt in 1869, Tour Malzenturn, the tower before Tour du Bourreau. Latter was the tower seen on the north side from the end of Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes. The other three towers to start from next to Tour du Bourreau (from left side on the above photo): Hans von Altheimturm, Heinrichsturm and Tour des Français
 |
| Barage Vauban (Vauban Dam), Strasbourg, France |
The Barage Vauban (Vauban Dam) is a fully covered fortified bridge and weir began construction in 1685 and had opened in 1670 with 13 arches across the width of the River Ill. The weir is also called the “Grande Ecluse” (Great Lock) It was built opposite the Pont Couverts to the northeast. The Dam was designed to guard the entrance to the Grande Île from the southwestern against the enemy, based on the plans of military engineer, Vauban. It flooded the southern area of the city when the enemy attacked during the Franco-Prussian War in 1870. The building underwent many changes over the years. It is currently use as pedestrian bridge and houses art exhibits.
 |
| Roof Terrace Barage Vauban (Vauban Dam), Strasbourg, France |
The roof terrace of the Barage Vaibam offers splendid view of the Pont Couverts and its towers, the canals, the timbered houses in the Petite France district and the Strasbourg Cathedral in the distance.
 |
| Barage Vauban (Vauban Dam), Strasbourg, France |
We had covered most of the beauty of the Petite France district. We got to walk back before sunset and while the Christmas Markets were not so crowded. We went back to the Pont Couverts and walked towards northeast to Grand Rue
 |
| Grand Rue, Strasbourg, France |
At the street of Grand Rue with the view on the left, the Eglise Saint-Pierre-le-vieux- the part for Protestant worship
 |
| Eglise Saint-Pierre-le-vieux- the part for Catholic worship, Strasbourg, France |
The building was first built in 1130 designed in Gothic architectural style. In 1529, when Strasbourg was a Free Imperial city, the building was passed to the Protestants. It was reverted back for Catholic worships in 1683. A wall was built to limit the Protestant worship on the nave. The separation was opened by a door in October 2012.
Facade of a Patisserie Restaurant on Rue du Vingt-Deux Novembre decorated with animal stuff and the framed sculpted figure of a chef in the center
A large part of Grande-Île (Grand Island) is a car-free zone. About 14% of people in the heart centre use bicycles for transport. More so, most of the tourist attractions in the city can be reached by the bicycle network.
Good news for shopaholic!!! Les Galeries Lafayette at the Rue des Francs Bourgeois, around the corner from Place Kléber.
 |
| Place Kléber, Strasbourg, France |
Place Kléber is located in the center of the Old town, Grande Île (Large Island). Christmas Markets are placed in the square from the last week of November to 30 December every year.
 |
| The Aubette on Place Kléber, Strasbourg, France |
The Aubette has a long history, first built in 1765~1772 and demolished by the Germans in 1870. In 1920, three avant-garde (unorthodox) artists. were commissioned to rebuild the Aubette. The building is considered a historical landmark. Free admission to go inside to be one of the spectators of the interior of this unique building. The Aubette is used as gallery, theatre and cafe.
During the advent, an outdoor ice-skating rink is placed in front of the wide facade of the Aubette.
In the middle of the Place Kléber is the statue of the French Revolutionary general who was assassinated in 1800 in Cairo, Jean-Baptiste Kléber. Latter was born in Strasbourg in 1753 and apparently, Place Kléber was named after him. Under the statue is a vault containing his remains.
The traditional 30meter Christmas tree from Volges mountain stood on the southwest of the Place Kléber. During the advent, the square is known as Le Village du partage (the village of sharing). It has been a tradition of the residents of Strasbourg to place a gift under the Grand Sapin (giant Christmas tree) for poor people in the city. Around 80 charities organised this event and the proceeds were for donations.
On our way to the Temple Neuf, we saw this restaurant and butchery, Porcus. Its facade was decorated with the cutie stuffed pigs
 |
| Temple Neuf, Strasbourg, France |
The Temple Neuf in Strasbourg is a Lutheran church stood on the site of the former Domnican convent which was destroyed during the Franco-Prussian War in 1870. The Dominican convent had been built in 1260. Strasbourg was freed from the bishops and the city became Protestants in 1590. The library of the Protestants seminary was transferred to the Dominican convent. The current building was built from 1874~1877 with pink sandstone designed in a Neo-Romanesque style.
There are markets placed in Place du Temple-Neuf during the advent. The markets are known as the Christmas market of Carré d’Or (Golden Square) which was organised by the association of the merchants of the Carré d’Or. It occupies the square in front of the protestant church, Temple Neuf.
 |
| Christmas decorations at Rue des Orfèvres, Strasbourg, France |
Going back to the Strasbourg Cathedral, we entered the narrow street of Rue des Orfèvres. The street is lined with Christmas decorations installed on the facade of the shopkeepers of the Carré d’Or.
 |
| Christmas decorations at Rue des Orfèvres, Strasbourg, France |
Storybook Christmas decorations with stuffed animals on the facade of the shops at Rue des Orfèvres
 |
| Christmas decorations at Rue des Orfèvres, Strasbourg, France |
We joined the queue as soon as we arrived in front of the Strasbourg Cathedral.
 |
| The Nave, Strasbourg Cathedral, France |
Inside the Strasboutg Cathedral is a long nave. It took the entire 13th century to build the nave. The giant Advent wreath suspended in the nave was made by a local florist in the city.
Strasbourg Cathedral has a history of one thousand years and over. A Roman temple was built on the same site of the Cathedral in 1015 but later destroyed by a fire. The present building in the late Gothic style began construction in the 12th century. The delicate spire was completed in 1439. The building shared the same history with Strasbourg. The building was assigned to the Protestant faith in 1524, when Strasbourg was Free Imperial city. It took two centuries and over before it was reverted back to the Catholic faith when Strasbourg was annexed to France in 1681. The Cathedral had endured many wars but not the destruction during the World War II when Hitler ordered the removal of the stained glass windows followed by the bombing by the British-American allies. The stained glass windows were later found by the US Military, hidden in the German salt mine. Full restoration of the building was completed in 1990. In 2000, it was threatened to be bombed by the Al-Qaeda. Fortunately, the joint force of the French and German police were quick to have it prevented.
 |
| Rose window of Strasbourg Cathedral, France |
Common to the Gothic Cathedrals, especially in France, is the Rose Window above the west door. It symbolises the roundness of the earth, sun and moon. The 32 yellow branches on the rose window inside the Strasbourg Cathedral represents 32 cob corns which symbolises wealth of the city. Quoted Victor Hugo saying "the rose-window is noble and well-cut". The organ, on the northern wall, was originally from the 14th century and has been restored over the years.
The magnificent collections of the 14 tapestries dated back in the 17th century are suspended in the nave. It portrayed the life of the Virgin Mary. Another work of art inside the Strasbourg Cathedral, on the northeast side of the nave, is an ornate pulpit, carved out of white sandstone in the 15th century.
The 20m in length Nativity scene inside the Strasbourg Cathedral.
 |
| The Astronomical Clock inside the Strasbourg Cathedral, France |
The current astronomical clock inside the Strasbourg Cathedral was built from 1838 to 1843. This is the third clock on this site. Everyday at half past noon, similar to the astronomical clocks in the other cities, there is a procession show that comes with a fee of €2. The angel on the right hand side of the clock sounds the bell then the angel on the left hand side flips the hourglass. A video of the history of the three clocks on the site is then shown for about half an hour. Then the procession of the sculpted figures begin with Death and the procession of four figures that represent the four stages of life: child, adolescence, adult and old man. Death hits the bell he is holding with a cross bone. The procession will continue at the upper niche with Christ. The 12 apostles bows before him one at a time. While this is happening, the life size cock on the top right hand side crows three times.
 |
| The 24 hour dial of the Strasbourg Astronomical Clock at the Strasbourg Cathedral, France |
To name some of the features of the Strasbourg Astronomical Clock: On the first level is the 24 hour dial with the mounted celestial globe on the base. The arrow on the statue of Apollo indicates the today's date. On the right hand side of the 24 hour dial is the Computus, determines the calendar date of Easter. On the left hand side of the 24 hour dial is the Equations. On top of the calendar are seven figures indicate the current day. On top of the clock is the Orrery, the planetary dial that displays the position of the moon, sun, planets and lunar eclipses.
The calendar actually showed the correct day we were there, 30 December 2019. One of the seven figures on top showed Lundi (Monday). We are not sure if the mechanism of this astronomical clock is currently working. Nevertheless, it is truly amazing how genius those who built these kind of clocks in the previous centuries without the presence of the modern technology such as the internet.
Christmas markets and the crowd at Place de la Cathedrale in Strasbourg, France. We were thinking if we go to the next market, Place du Château. My girls started to get tired of the Christmas Markets. This was the 9th day of our tour, most spent in the Christmas Markets.
On our way to the Tram stop from the Strasbourg Cathedral, we now see the streets in the commercial centre, fully lit up.
 |
| Place Gutenberg at night, Strasbourg, France |
Place Gutenberg at night with the famous blue tree.
Going back, on our way to the Tram stop at Langstross, the icons of Strasbourg were still visible to us. It was like stopping us from leaving and it was really tempting. However, we had a road trip the next day, visited the other towns/villages in the Alsace region.
Fully lit up entry to Petite France, We could have go and see again the historical district, fully lit up. But we were really freezing and exhausted. We had been wandering from noon time. Just now I have realised I do not have a photo of the arch sign, Strasbourg, Capitale de Noël, the Porte d'entrée de la Capitale de Noël (entry to the Christmas capital). It was just stone throw away from the Strasbourg Cathedral. Anyways, Strasbourg is a must to visit in France. We could not wait to see the other villages in the Alsace region.
continues to Driving in the Alsace Wine Route to Obernai and Ribeauvillé as the first two stops 31 December 2019
Check out other Places Visited in France
Dhow Cruise Dubai with Mala Tours
ReplyDelete