Sunday 17 June 2018

Budapest, Hungary 09 May~ 10 May 2018


Budapest, Hungary
I never thought this city is this beautiful.  Great building architectures, most of which are on the UNESCO World Heritage list.  Humble city that offers amazing sights everywhere. The second largest river in Europe, the Danube, touches Budapest.  The Danube separates the city into two:  Buda and Pest.


We arrived Budapest on 09 May 2018 from Singapore with 4 hours stop-over at Helsinki by Finnair.   We took the Airport Bus E 100 to the city, alighting at Astoria bus stop.  We purchased forints equivalent to 70 euros near the bus stop at Astoria.  The forex was reasonable with 1% commission about 313 forints for a euro..

We walked for like 10 minutes pulling our heavy luggage to the apartment, Buddha Budapest Apartment.  After we had checked in, we started to explore the city.  Our place was very near to the Elizabeth bridge.  Latter is  one of the four important bridges span the Danube River in Budapest.  The other three are the:  Chain bridge, the oldest bridge and the second permanent bridge in the entire stretch of the Danube River; Margaret Bridge and the Liberty Bridge- each have story to tell.

It was still early, we tried to catch the public boat for a cheap cruise.  We waited at Gellert station, near the Liberty bridge, but it was always full.  It was around 4pm then, considered peak hour.   We took the bus to the Margaret bridge.  From there, we walked  to Jaszai Mari Ter station and waited for the public boat going south.  Fortunately, one came that was not packed.  We purchased the tickets in the boat, each 75f0 forints (around 2.40 euros)

The Danube River in Budapest is the only one who offers scenic views among the 10 countries lies on the river.  On Pest side,  the third world’s largest parliament, Hungarian Parliament; Shoes by the bank. On Buda side,  Fishermen’s Bastion, Matthias church, Buda Castle...  The River starts in Germany, passing through Vienna, Austria, Bratislava, Slovakia, this city-Budapest, Croatia, Serbia, Romania, Bulgaria, Moldova, Ukraine and empties into the Black Sea.  
Szechenyl Chain bridge over the Budapest Danube Rivers and the Hungarian Parliament at the Pest side
The photo was taken from Buda Castle

Shoes by the bank at Budapest, Hungary
60 pairs of shoes on the Danube Promenade in memory of the victims of the Holocaust- shot into the River- during World War II
Hilly Buda at Budapest, Hungary
Photos taken from the Boat D12 we took to cruise the Danube.  We didn't cruise the  full length of the Budapest Danube.  We started at the Margaret Island boarding at Jaszai Mari Ter (Margit Hid) station and alighted at .Petofi Ter near the Elizabeth bridge.  The views in between are the most scenic spots we could see such as the Hungarian Parliament on the Pest side and the Royal Castle on the Buda side and the Chain Bridge.


Boat D12 Stops

Haller Utca (District IX)
Boráros Tér (Petőfi Híd)
Szent Gellért Tér (Szabadság Híd)
Petőfi Tér (Erzsébet Híd)
Castle Garden
Kossuth Lajos Tér
Batthyány Tér
Jászai Mari Tér (Margit) Híd
Margaret Island
Népfürdő Utca (Árpád Híd)
Római Fürdő
Hungarian Parliament
On the Pest side lies the third largest Parliament in the world, the Hungarian Parliament.  A magnificent mixture of architectural styles of Neo- Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque.  The building was fully completed in 1902 with 691 rooms and with the same height as the St. Stephen's Basilica.


Hungarian Parliament, Budapest, Hungary

Different views of the Hungarian Parliament
Hungarian Parliament, Budapest, Hungary

Hungarian Parliament, Budapest, Hungary



Chain Bridge with St Stephen's Basilica view from the top of the Buda Castle Tunnel
After the short cruise, we walked on the Chain Bridge.  The suspension bridge spans the Danube River between the Szechenyl square on the Pest side and the Adam Clark Square on the Buda side.
The Chain bridge is one of the icon of Budapest. It is the first permanent bridge to connect Buda and Pest.     Four stone lions placed at both ends of the bridge carved by Janos Marschalko.

During the middle ages, a pontoon bridge used to connect Buda and Pest.  It was only passable from Autumn to Spring and it was frozen during Winter.  Many times,  a sudden change of the weather and had people stuck at the other side.  Such happened to Count Istvan Szechenyl, it took a week before he was able to attend his father's funeral.   The Count became advocate to build a permanent bridge.  He had a Greek merchant, Georgos Sinas, to finance the bridge.  He had an English engineer, William Clark and a Scottish engineer, Adam Clark as the designer and builder respectively.  The two Clarks were not related though.

Apparently, the two squares  at the end of Chain bridge were named after Count Istvan Szechenyl (Pest side) and Adam Square (Buda side)
Chain bridge from Pest side

Chain bridge from Buda side

Views of Buda from the Chain bridge

Adam Clark Square
At the end of Chain bridge at Buda side is the Adam Clark Square, named after the Scottish engineer of the bridge and designer of the tunnel.  The square is the busiest intersection surrounded by major landmarks such as the tunnel- designed by Adam Clark- leading under the castle, the funicular that will take you to the Szt Gyorgy at the Royal Palace and the KM 0,






Funicular, Budapest, Hungary
From 1870 to 1928, before the bus, funicular was the easiest way to reach the Castle District.    It was destroyed during WWII and was reopened after 4 decades and over in 1986.

Funicular provides the spectacular views of the city on the way up the hill.   We walked up though the steep hill with a stop at the top of the tunnel.  Alternative way to get to the castle is by Bus#16 that stops at Clark Adam Square, taxi or the Budapest Castle bus.

Buda Castle, Budapest, Hungary
The Castle hill  is the perfect spot for best pictures of the city.  Panoramic views of the Danube and the Pest.

Buda Hill Tunnel
Buda Hill Tunnel was built in the 19th century by the same Scottish engineer who built the Chain Bridge, Clark Adam.

1975 KM 0 sculpture  by Miklos Borsos

1975 Limestone sculpture by Miklos Borsos with 3 meters high, KM 0 marks the reference of all the road distances to the city are measured.
Buda, the right bank of the Budapest Danube in Hungary
Budapest as the capital of Hungary was formed in 1889 from the union of Buda and Obuda at the Western bank of the Danube and the Pest at the Eastern.  Buda is like the oldest city, Obuda was where the ruins of the Aquincum (Roman Capital City of the Province of Pannonia)  and the Pest is the commercial and political area of the city.

Pest, the left bank of the Budapest Danube in  Hungary
We walked across  the Chain bridge for a few times while we were in Budapest. The views of Buda and Pest along the Danube is really marvelous.  We cannot get enough.  The views at night is a different story.

Before we tried the local food for our dinner, we walked around  Pest.  Our feet led us  to Erzsebet Square with the new 65m in height Budapest Eye.  We had our first gelato near St Stephen Basilica.  Then to Vaci utca, Budapest pedestrian street, from Vorosmarty square to our apartment.
We visited the St Stephen's Basilica before we went to the Buda Castle the following day. To the castle, we did not take the funicular, we climbed and took all the streneous steep stairs to the top.  It was not that tiring, we were stopping to admire the stunning views.  We had stayed a bit at the top of the tunnel before we continued up to the castle.  Fishermans Bastion and the Matthias Church were just a few meters walk from the castle.

From Fishermans Bastion, we took the bus #6 down the hill to Pest.  We bought to go early dinner at the Eker fast food  Restaurant and ate in our apartment.  After a bit rest, we went out and took the Metro line 1 or the  Millenium Underground  to the City Park and Heroes Park.  Szechenyl Thermal Bath was around there too.

From Heroes Park,  we alighted at Vorosmarty ut and walked from there the stretch of the  Andrassy Avenue to Deak Ferenc.  We went to check out also the deepest station in Budapest at Szell Kalman Ter.

View from Buda Csatle:  Hungarian Parliament, Margaret Bridge and Danube River

Margaret Bridge crossing the Danube River, Budapest, Hungary



View of Elizabeth Bridge and Liberty bridge from the Castle

Elizabeth Bridge crossing the River Danube in Budapest, Hungary
The apartment we had stayed at was on foot to Elizabeth bridge.  We had stayed in Pest.  Buda was quiet at night, most of the shops and restaurants closed early.  There were few buses  stop at the end of the bridge on Pest side that go to the Keleti station.

Elizabeth Bridge crossing the River Danube in Budapest, Hungary
Our apartment, Buddha Budapest Apartment is ocated along Vaci Utca and very near to Elisabeth bridge.  Apparently, the first we visited in the city.

Budapest City Bikes dock station near the Elisabeth bridge, Budapest, Hungary
We were tempted  to use the city bike but with so much trouble with the registration, we just walked.

Budapest Inner City Parish Church (Church of Blessed Virgin Mary)
Budapest-Belvárosi Nagyboldogasszony Főplébánia-templom or the Budapest Inner City Parish Church is the main Parish Church in Budapest.  The church adjacent to the Elisabeth Bridge on the Pest side.

view from Elizabeth bridge in Budapest, Hungary

Liberty bridge crossing the River Danube in Budapest, Hungary
The Liberty bridge connects the Hotel Gellert on the Buda side to the Great Market Hall on the Pest side.




Danubius Hotel Gellert
At the end of the Liberty bridge on the Buda side, The Hotel Gellert.
Hotel Gellert is an Art Nouveau hotel along the Danube River in Budapest.  It was opened in 1918.  The hotel is famous for its special attraction, the Gellert Baths.   Climbing up the hill leads to the Gellert Hill with the statue of the Liberty.

Boat D12 Szent Gellert Ter (Szabadsag Hid) Stop is at the right bank under the Liberty Bridge.

Gellert Hill, Budapest, Hungary

Statue of Liberty at Gellert Hill, Budapest, Hungary
The Statue of Liberty at the Gellert Hill is seen all over the city.  It was erected during the Communist era though, it was never removed since Liberty has been the symbol of Budapest.


From the airport, we took the Bus 100E  to the city.  The bus are located on the right of the airport exit.  We purchased the ticket thru the machine located near the terminal.  I saw four machines and there were staff there, very kind and happy to assist.  We purchased two airport bus tickets each 900 forints and a bundle of 10 tickets for use in the city: bus/train/tram amounting to 3,000 forints.  We used credit card, we had not purchased forints yet.  It is not advisable to buy forints at the airport or train stations.  The converted amount in Singapore dollars charged to our card was S$24.99.
We got off at Astoria and walked for about 10 minutes to our apartment.

Budapest Eye (Ferriswheel), Hungary
From Chain Bridge, our feet led us to Erzsebet Square.

Danubius Fountain on Erzsebet Square, Budapest, Hungary
The Danubius Fountain is the main attraction at Erzsebet Square.  It was the first fountain in Budapest originally situated at Kalvin ter before it was damaged during World War II.  It has been at the Erzsebet Square since 1959.  The weight of the well is 100 tons and over.  The statues represent the main rivers of  Hungary such as the Danube,Tisza, Drava and Sava

Statue of Mihaly Vorosmarty at Vorosmarty Ter, Budapest, Hungary
Located at the northern end of Vaci Utca is a public square in the city center, Vorosmarty Ter,  named after the important Hungarian poet and dramatist, Mihaly Vorosmarty since 1929.  The square has held a long list of names since it was created in 1812.

Vorosmarty Ter, Budapest, Hungary
The stairs down to the shallow tunnel of the southern terminus of the M1 line or the Millenium Underground is at Vorosmarty Ter.

Cafe Gerbeaud at Vorosmarty Ter, Budapest, Hungary
Cafe Gerbeaud is one of the traditional coffeehouses in Europe as per Wikipedia.  Never tried though.

Nemzetgazdasági Minisztérium (Ministry of National Economy), Budapest, Hungary

Fountain with stoned lions at Vorosmety ter in Budapest, Hungary


Spring Open Market at Vorosmarty Square






Vaci Utca, Budapest, Hungary
Vaci utca is Budapest Pedestrian Street lined with restaurants, clothing and  souvenir shops. It runs parallel to the Danube from Vorosmarty square to the Great Market Hall (near the Liberty Bridge).

Vaci Utca, Budapest, Hungary

Vaci Utca, Budapest, Hungary

Paprika chicken at Budapest, Hungary
We were so busy walking around on the first day, we only had time to have our first meal at 9 in the evening.  We wanted to try the much talked about goulash.  We saw some restaurants offering complete meal from Goulash soup, Entree:  a choice of Paprika chicken or Schnitzel or Sausage and a local dessert for 2500 forints~3000 forints (7~10 euros).  The offer was good till 9 in the evening.  By the time we sat for dinner, the offer was closed so we had to order as per the regular.  I wanted to try the Paprika Chicken and my husband ordered the famous Goulash.  So, how was our dinner? We were not happy... tasted like old that were just heated up.  Maybe the cook had already left since it was  late.

Beef goulash with pasta at Budapest, Hungary
I have read the restaurants and bars at Vaci Utca are for tourists.  Expect for a costly meal yet not that authentic local food.

Buda Castle at night, Budapest, Hungary
After dinner, we went back to the Chain Bridge to see for ourselves the city illuminated.  The bridge without a doubt turned into magical sights, likewise, views from the  bridge.

Chain bridge at night with the view of Buda side, Budapest, Hungary

View of Margaret bridge and Hungarian Parliament at night from the Chain Bridge, Budapest, Hungary

Elizabeth Bridge at night, Budapest, Hiungary

Hungarian dolls


Budapest Tram 2, Hungary
Budapest Tram 2 offers scenic views up close the Pest side along the Danube and the magnificent views of the Buda hills across.  It passes from Jaszai Mari Ter (near Margaret bridge) to the Hungarian Parliament, Shoes by the bank to the Chain bridge (gateway to the Vaci Utca and Erzsebet Ter from the Pest side and the Castle district from the Buda side) to the Elisabeth bridge, Liberty bridge (short walk to the Great Market hall; Gellert hill across) all the way to Kozvagohid (Racogzi bridge) before it goes back to Jazsai Mari Ter, opposite route.





Great Market Hall, Budapest, Hungary
First thing we did on the second day of our stay in Budapest, we checked the popular Great Market Hall.  Most shops had just started to open.  The fresh goods stall and grocery stores were fully opened though.  All sorts of goods are found on these three floor great building.  We planned to have our breakfast in this market...nothing appealed to us.  We find the nearest McDoanlds and ended up the one in Astoria.


The Great Market Hall is a short walk from the Liberty Bridge.

Reformed Church at Kalvin Ter, Budapest, Hungary

Statue of Kalvin Janos at kalvin Ter, Budapest, Hungary
John Calvin or Kalvin Janos in Hungarian was a French Protestant who founded the Reformed Church in Budapest.  Kalvin Square was named after him.  Short messages carved on pavestones were installed during the 500th anniversary of the Reformation.

Chapel of Saint Roch along Rakcozi Ut and Gyulai Pal u, Budapest, Hungary
Morning walk after breakfast, on our way to the Dohany Street Synagouge.


Dohany Street Synagogue, Budapest, Hungary
Dohany Street Synagogue is the  largest in Europe and second in the world that could seat 3000 people, located in the old  Jewish quarter near Astoria.  Inside are the Great Synagogue, Memorial and Jewish Museum, Heroes temple and graveyard.

Erzsebet Square, Budapest, Hungary
Erzsebet Square is one of the favourite parks in the city.  A frequent meeting place by many,   most by the young people.  The square was named after Elizabeth "Sisi", the wife of Habsburg Emperor Franz Joseph, in 1898.  It was renamed to Stalin  in 1946, to Engels in 1956 and got back to Erzsebet in 1990.

We were in this part of the Erzsebet Square the following day before noon on our way to St. Stephen Basilica.

Small pond at the Akvarium with view of the Budapest Eye on Erzsebet Square, Hungary

St Stephen's Basilica, Budapest, Hungary
St. Stephen Cathedral was named after Hungarian's  first King and the founder of the country.  It was build in neoclassical style between 19th and 20th century.  With its Dome, the church is as tall as the Hungarian Parliament to emphasize the equal importance of politics and religion.  The facade is simple though, the interior is glorious full of work of arts and marble.

St Stephen's Basilica DOME, Budapest, Hungary

St Stephen's Basilica Golden DOME, Budapest, Hungary

St Stephen's Basilica  ALTAR, Budapest, Hungary

St Stephen's Basilica ORGAN, Budapest, Hungary

Budapest Castle Bus
Eco friendly little coach runs every Spring at the Budapest Historic Castle District, fully powered by electricity and driven by official guides.  It operates from 9am to 5pm every 20 minutes.  You can purchase the ticket when boarding the bus:  adult  2100huf/6.3 euros,  children (8~17yrs)  1200 huf/3.9 euros, free with Budapest Card.

Steps to Buda Castle, Budapest, Hungary
We opted to take the many steps to the castle instead.

Statue of Turul at the Buda Castle complex, Budapest, Hungary

Turul is a mythological bird of prey depicted as a falcon or a hawk.  It became the symbol of modern Hungary.  The statue was the first we see when we reached the castle.

Buda Castle, Budapest, Hungary
Buda Castle was once the palace complex of the Hungarian Kings,  built and completed in 1265.  The present site now was rebuilt in the 18th century. The Royal Palace was beautiful until it was greatly damaged during World War II.   At Present, the castle houses the Hungarian National Gallery and the Budapest History Museum.


Buda Castle, Budapest, Hungary

Royal Palace forerourt with the Matthias Fountain

Matthias Fountain, Budapest Castle, Hiungary

Budapest Royal Courtyard entrance/exit
The Budpadest Royal Courtyard now houses the Budapest History Museum

Royal Castle Courtyard, Budapest, Hungary

Matthias Church, Budapest, Hungary
Still at the Buda District, few minutes away from the Castle is the Matthias Church.  It was built in honor of Our Lady, the patron saint of the Hungary.  You need to pay a fee to see the beauty of its interior.  We opted not to go in.

Fisherman's Bastion, Budapest, Hungary
Opposite the Matthias Church is the viewing terrace in neo- Gothic neo-Romanisque style, Fisherman's Bastion.  This wall was protected by the Fishermen's guild and a legend say the fishermen were the one who defended the wall in the middle ages, thus its name.  The seven towers represent the seven Magyar tribes that settled in the Carpathian basin in 895.  Need to pay a fee to go to the towers to get a panoramic view of the Danube, Margaret Island, Pest and the Gellert Hill.  We opted not to go up.

Fisherman's Bastion, Budapest, Hungary


A bronze statue of King Stephen I of Hungary with a horse was erected in 1905.  The pedestals in neo-Romanesque style illustrated the life of the King.


EKER Restaurant, fast food restaurant.  We bought our early to go dinner at this Restaurant. The food was better than the dinner we had the previous day.  We had sweet and sour fish fillet, rice and Beef Gyros Pita.



Millenial Underground or the  Metro Line 1 in Budapest is the first in Hungary and the second in the European continent after the Underground in London, opened in 1896 with 11 stations..  The vintage trains are still operating as regular public transport with regular ticket or pass.  The trains run underneath the Andrassy Avenue from Vorosmarty Ter to the City Park (Varosliget)
.

Mexikói út
Széchenyi fürdő
Hősök tere
Bajza utca
Kodály körönd
Vörösmarty utca
Oktogon
Opera
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út
Deák Ferenc tér  BKV m 2 jms.svgBKV m 3 jms.svg
Vörösmarty tér

Heroes Square, Budapest, Hungary
Heroes Square is the main entrance to the Budapest City Park.  The square is located at the end of the Andrassy Avenue and next to City Park.  Also, one of the station of M1 Millenium Underground, Hosok tere.

Heroes Square, Budapest, Hungary
The Millenium Monument in the middle of the square was erected to commemorate the 1000th years of the Magyars.  On top of the center pillar is the statue of Archangel Gabriel holding the double cross of Christianity and the Holy Crown.  The statues surrounded the tall pillar are the seven chieftains who led the Magyars to Hungary.  On top of the right colonnades are the statues of female of Peace and the statue of couple of Glory and Knowledge  On the top of the left colonnades are the statues of couple of Labor and Wealth and the statue of  the man with a snake, symbol of War.  The statues of the Kings and important historical figures of Hungary. were placed in the seven colonnades on the left and seven colonnades on the right.

View of  Vajdahunyad Castle from the lakeside
Vajdahunyad Castle is a castle in the City Park in Budapest built in 1896 as part of the Millenial Exhibition to show the various architectural designs and styles in Hungary: Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque.  At present, it houses the biggest Agricultural Museum in Europe, Museum of Hungarian Agriculture.

Varosliget Lake at Budapest City Park, Hungary
The castle is surrounded by man made lake that is used for boating in the summer and turn to skate rink in the winter. There are more to do in this park, we just did not explore that much. The 150 steps to the tower of the castle are opened to admire the birds eye view of the park, the Basilica, Gellert Hill and th Szechenyl Bath.

Szechenyl Themal Bath is within the area.  We actually planned to go for the spa, but we did not have enough time, we still have to prepare our stuff for our travel to Vienna the next day.

Andrassy Avenue, Budapest, Hungary
Andrassy Avenue is home to beautiful buildings, designer shops and luxurious restaurants and cafes.  The Opera House and the House of Terror Museum is within this street.

Andrassy Avenue from Vorosmarty Ut, Budapest, Hungary
From City Park, we took the M1 from Szechenyl Furdo.  We alighted at Vorsomarty Ut and walked along Andrassy Avenue to the city center.

Andrassy Avenue from Vorosmarty Ut, Budapest, Hungary
Vorosmarty Ut is the nearest station to the House of Terror.

From Vorosmarty Ut, we walked to the next M1 station along Andrassy Ave- Oktogon continued to the next, Opera Station.

Formerly Drechsler Palace, Budapest, Hungary
This neo-Reneissance style building along the Andrassy Avenue and opposite the Hungarian State Opera House was used to call the Drechsler Palace or the Ballet Institute.  The building was built  before the end of the 19th century designed as an  investment of the Hungarian Railways Pension Institute.  After World War II, in 1949, the ground floor was used for Ballet training till 2002.  From then it has been dormant.  In January 2017,  there was a press released that the W Hotels Worldwidel will launched W Budapest at Drechsler Palace in 2020.



Hungarian State Opera House, Budapest, Hungary
The Opera House was under restoration when we were there and was to be reopened before end of the month.  Too bad- we were at the wrong time.  Nevertheless, the architectural style is in neo-Reneissance with an element of Baroque.  The elegance was still there regardless of the scaffolding.

view of St Stephen Basilica from Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út, Budapest, Hungary
From Andrassy Avenue, cross Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út to get to the  Northern end of Erzsebet Square  Nearest M1 station from this area is the same as the name of the road, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út.  Main attraction in this area is the St. Stephen's Basilica.  We were now back to the city center.

We headed to Deak Ferenc ter and took M2 to Szell Kalman Ter.

Szell Kalman Ter
What's at Szell Kalman Ter Station?

Szell Kalman Ter Escalator, Budapest, Hungary
Szell Kalman Ter, on M2 line, is the deepest station of Budapest Metro at 38.4 meter depth.  I took he escalator and it lasted almost 2 minutes.  The station was formerly known as Moszkva station until 2011.  It was opened in 1972 and rebuilt in 2006.  The station is in the Buda side of the city.




Budapest Keleti Station
Off to Vienna, Austria

Our visit to this beautiful city had ended on 11 May at 6:40am.   Aboard the carriage 24 of the train RJ 162  bound to Zurich at Budapest-Keleti station.  Our destination though was  Vienna.  ETA 9:14am.  Cost of train ticket from Budapest to Vienna booked on 14 March 2018 was 19 euros each.

Getting to the Budapest-Keleti station, we walked about 5 minutes from the apartment to Ferenciek Ter and waited for the bus coming down from Elizabeth bridge.  Bus Nos: 5, 7, 8E, 110, 112 and 178 all go to the Budapest-Keleti station.  I still asked the bus operator if the bus was stopping at Keleti, The travel was just 7 minutes with 5 stops..  We were just in Europe for 3 days, yet felt exhausted with all those places we visited in Budapest.

Check out the next blog.  Visit to St Stephen Cathedral in Vienna, Kunsthistorisches Museum and the Schonbrunn Garden

Europe Tour May2018






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