Wednesday 3 October 2018

SCHONBRUNN PALACE & GARDEN, VIENNA, AUSTRIA/ 12 May 2018

The Great Parterre, Neptune Fountain and the Gloriette at Schonbrunn Park, Vienna, Austria
Schonbrunn  is one of the major attractions in Vienna, Austria.  The Palace and its Garden have been an important  Viennese art since the 18th century.  It was the summer residence of the Imperial family until the end of the Habsburg Monarch in 1918.  The palace became a museum after World War I.  
Schonbrunn was the summer residence of the Imperial family.  Marie Antoinette, Queen of France,  grew up in this palace.  

Schonbrunn means beautiful spring.  The place was originally known as Katterburg and there was a mansion built in the estaate.  As per legend, the son of the emperor found a beautiful spring and exclaimed 'So ein schöner Brunnen', thus the name Schonbrunn.

Schonbrunn was remodelled to its present design during the reign of Maria Theresa.  Major restoration had been  done after it was damaged during World War II,,  We could still visualize how was it look like before the restoration from the paintings by various artists displayed in most of the museums in Vienna and all over Austria.


Guests are welcomed by two headed eagles each on top of the two obelisks.  Originally Habsburg eagles (?) then replaced to Napoleon eagles.   It was opened to the public since 1779.  The park gates open at 6:30 am and could be visited for free. Getting inside the palace and a few attractions in the park are for a fee.


Figure of an eagle carried into the battle by the Napoleon's Grand Army during the Napoleonic Wars
There were two occasions Napoleon I had stayed at Schonbrunn.  First was in 1804 when his army defeated the Russian and Austrian Empire during the Batlle of Austerlitz (Battle of 3 empires).  The second was in 1809 after Napoleon's defensive victory against  Austria during the Battle of Wangram which led to the breakup of Fifth Coalition (alliance of the British and Austrians against French).  Schonbrunn Palace was Napoleon's headquarters during the occupation and he had the two obelisks built crowned with the Napoleon eagles.

Further, during the signing of the Treaty of Austria in 1809 at Schonbrunn, France and Austria became allies following the marriage of Napoleon to the daughter of the Austrian Emperor Francis I,  Archduchess Mary Louise.

Schonbrunn Model
A Schonbrunn model is displayed at the courtyard.  The Vienna Tourist Guides  had this model built from the collected donations.
Major events had been held at Schonbrunn.  One of which was the meeting between the US President,  John F Kennedy and the Soviet Premier, Nikita Krushchev in 1961,
It was at the courtyard where a young Austrian attempted to kill Napoleon Bonaparte I during or after the marching ceremony of the French Grand Army in 1809,
After World War II, Schonbrunn provided offices to the British Delegates and headquarter for the Small British Battalion who had stayed in Vienna. until the reestablishment of Republic of Austria in 1955.

Western basin at the Parade Courtyard, Schonbrunn, Vienna, Austria
by Franz Anton Zauner (1746~1822)
There are two fountains at the Parade Courtyard.  The basin at the western side represents the three important rivers in Austria

Western basin at the Parade Courtyard, Schonbrunn, Vienna, Austria
by Franz Anton Zauner
The Western Basin represents the Rivers in Austria: Danube, Inn and Enns
Austria has 3 major rivers.   Most of the rivers in Austria drain to these 3 rivers and eventually to the 2 seas of Austria:  The Black Sea and the North Sea.   Danube River drains to The Black Sea and Inn and Enns to the North Sea.
The Danube is the second longest river in Europe after Volga.  10% of the length of the Danube is in Austria.  The flow starts from Germany before entering Austria  then leave for Slovakia.  We were able to cruise the Danube River in Budapest.  We were planning to cruise the one Vienna to get to Bratislava which lasts for an hour only, we opted for the train though.  We can't say more of the Inn and Enns.  We have not visited any city they are located except for the Salzach River when we went to the Mozartsteg, a pedestrian bridge across the Salzach river in Salzburg as one of the film sites of .the Sounds of Music.

Eastern basin at the Parade Courtyard, Schonbrunn, Vienna, Austria
by Johann Baptist Hagenauer (1732~1810)
The round basin at eastern side of the Parade Court represents the three Kingdoms outside Austria conquered by the Hapsburg Empire.

Eastern basin at the Parade Courtyard, Schonbrunn, Vienna, Austria
by Johann Baptist Hagenauer
The Eastern Basin represents the kingdoms of Galizien, Lodomerien and Transylvania.  These were the kingdoms occupied by Austria-Hungary.  At present, Galicia and Lodomena is between the border of Poland and Ukraine.
Transylvania is considered in Central Romania.  The historical region partly preserved the baroque buildings, castles, walls and bastions and the Gothic fortress that is always mentioned in many films and novels.  Sounds intriguing place, worth to include Transylvannia on our bucket list.


Schloss Schonbrunn is one of the famous baroque style building in Europe.  It was in the list of the UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996.  It is painted in light yellow which was followed by some of the residences in the country.  There are 1441 rooms inside the palace but only 40 rooms are opened for public to see for a fee.
Schonbrunn was acquired by the Habsburg in 1569,  It became the imperial hunting lodge. The estate had been the favourite hunting ground of Eleanora Gonzaga,  the wife of  Emperor Ferdinand II (King of Bohemia and Hungary from 1618~1637 and Holy Emperor from 1619~1637.) It was bequeathed to  the Dowager Empress upon the death of the Emperor in 1637.  A Palace was added to the existing Katterburg Mansion in 1642.  The estate was totally destroyed during the Turkish seige in 1683.
In 1695, the then emperor, Leopold I, commissioned to construct a palace and a garden that would outshine the Versailles in France.  Due to costly wars, the emperor settled for a modest design.  The construction was partially completed when the emperor died a decade later.

Schonbrunn remained the same as when Emperor Leopold I left until it was given as a wedding gift to the daughter of Emperor Charles V, Maria Theresia,  in mid 1700s.  Maria Theresia became the Empress and had a Palace built at Schonbrunn with the lavish features such as the huge garden, zoo and  fountains.  After her death in 1780,  Schonbrunn was left again to uninterested imperial family.  It was occupied by French Emperor Napoleon in 1805 and 1809.

Schonbrunn was of importance again when in 1853, Emperor Josef Franz married Elizabeth of Bavaria who is also known as Sisi. She was loved by the people for her independence and beauty.  The empress had the palace renovated for the better.  In 1867, Austria and Hungary became one empire.   She added imperial state apartments and had built ornate carriages

Empress Sisi was assassinated in 1898 in Geneva, Switzerland.  Emperor Josef Franz reigned till his death in 1916.   He was succeeded by his great nephew,  Charles I or Karl 1.  Latter was the last Emperor of Austria, Last King of Hungary and Bohemia, and the last Habsburg Monarch.   Charles I renounced to participate in the state affairs and was presumed to abdicate throne ending the Habsburg monarch and the Monarchy system in Austria.   Austria became a Republic in 1919 and currently, a Federal Republic.

Schonbrunn is now owned and managed by the state of Vienna

Apparently, we were at the Schonbrunn Courtyard 20 minutes befor 10 am,  How did we get to Schonbrunn?
As mentioned in the previous post, Vienna 11 May 2018, we had stayed overnight at Grand Central Apartment.  We cheked out around half past seven the next morning and walked  for about 10 minutes to Vienna Central Station.  We left our luggage, had quick breakfast and boarded the Underground to Schonbrunn.  We just purchased single tickets costs 2.40 euros,  Schonbrunn was the only attraction we visited in Vienna on that day.  From the Central Station, we took U1 bound to Leopoldau and alighted at  Karlsplatz.  Then we took U4 bound to Hutteldorf and alighted at Schonbrunn station. The underground travel was less than half an hour including the wait.  From Schonbrunn station, about half kilometer walk to the Palace.

Outside the Schonbrunn Palace view from the Courtyard
There are sculptures of sphinxes and lions across the main entrance.


Entrance  to the Palace

We did not go inside the palace.  There are many to be busy at in the huge garden which is free to visit.  We went up though at Gloriette for 3.70 euros to have panoramic view of the garden and the North Western part of Vienna.  For those who want to see the palace inside and the special attractions in the park,  you could check this link, Schonbrunn Tickets & Prices.


Horse drawn carriage going around the Schonbrunn Park.  65 euros for a round trip.  You could actually see more walking around.  Or you could take the panorama train with almost the same route as the horse carriage for 8 euros unlimited ride for a day.


Mural Pavillon at the Botanical Garden that is full of roses at springtime.


As we headed to the huge garden, we passed through part of the  Rose Garden and the Botanical Garden.  We have been  at Versailles Palace and Garden in France, we still can't help to get amaze.  Versailles is the best among the best though,  Schonbrunn has its own to be proud of too.  Let's continue to walk

view of the Great Parterre and the rear side of the Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna, Austria
Between the back side of the Schonbrunn Palace and the Neptune Fountain is the  Great Parterre.  Climb to the balcony of the palace and you get a good view of the park towards the Neptune Fountain to the Gloriette hill.  Everywhere is so beautiful!!! Meticulously  arranged flowers beds on the rectangular lawn with eight symmetrical paths between the palace and the Neptune fountain.  You may wonder how huge the park is, approximately 1 km each side. 


A total of 32 marble giant-sized statues that depictt the Greek and Roman mythology and legends are lined on both sides of the Great Parterre along the clipped hedges from the palace to the Neptune Fountain.  Each statue has a story to tell, the best way to refresh and learn more of the Mythology.  The  long avenue of trees, built like a wall and topiary hedges, serve as passageways that could lead to another attraction. After the Turkish siege in 1683, the then Emperor commissioned for a French Garden style for Schonbrunn.  It was left unfinished from the death of the Emperor. During the reign of Maria Theresia in the 1750's, the park was redesigned to Baroque style.


Stood at the balcony of the rear side of Schonbrunn Palace, a grandiose view of the Great Parterre towards the Neptune fountain and the Crowning Glory Gloriette.  Apparently, the sun was so up!!!  What's with my hub's dearly hat?!!!

The Baroque complex was initially designed in the middle of 18th century by the Lotharingian architects under the supervision of Emperor Franz I Stephan of Lorraine (1708~1765), the husband of Empress Maria Theresia (1717~1780).  It was redesigned in 1770 to its present structure by Johann Ferdinand Hetzendorf von Hohenberg (1732~1816).  The 32 marble tall sculptures were added and executed along the tall hedges by Christian Wilhelm Beyer (1725~1796)

Double headed Habsburg Eagle
Schonbrunn Garden is one of the symbol of the Imperial power.


The entrance  to the Irrgarten or the Maze and Labyrinth is along the western side of the park.

Entrance fee:  5.50 euros
Opening hours varies

Nov~Mar  8am~5pm
15 Apr~Jun 30    9am~6pm
Jul~Aug              9am~7pm
Sep                      9am~6pm
1 Oct~27 Oct      9am~5pm
28Oct~4Nov       9am~4pm

Most of the attractions are closed in winter.


A flower bed away from the Irrgarten is the Tiergarten or the Schonbrunn Zoo.  We did not go inside these two attractions, we have learned two German words anyway.

This place was formerly the private menagerie of the royals.  The zoo was completed in 1752

Admission fees:
Adult:  20 euros
Child: 10 euros (6~18 valid ID required)
Opening times varies:
Nov~Jan   9am~4:30pm
Feb          9am~5pm
Mar         9am~5:30pm
Apr~Sep  9am~6:30pm
Oct          9am~5:30pm

Mythological and Roman statues along the western side of the Great Parterre at Schonbrunn Park, Vienna, Austria
From the Neptune fountain, the view of the entrance to the Tiergarten towards the rear side of the palace.  Viewed as well a few of the statues lined on the  western side of the Great Parterre stood at the entry way  of the sculpted hedges.


Few steps from the Zoo is one of the entrance to the Gloriette hill



Both sides of the Neptune fountain is an entry to the  Gloriette uphill.

Emperor Franz I Stephan of Lorranie the husband of Empress Maria Theresia, supervised the redesign of Schonbrunn. from the time the estate was given to the Empress as a wedding gift in the mid 1700s until his death in 18 August 1765.  The death of the Emperor had the Empress devastated.  She painted her room black, dressed n black for the rest of her life, cut her hair short and abandoned ornamentation.  She spent the whole day of August and every 18th of each month alone her chamber.

Thereafter, the Empress had the palace refurbished and ensued alterations.  Followed by designing and laying out of the gardens in 1770s.  The Neptune Fountain, The Obelisk, The Roman Ruins and The Gloriette were constructed under the supervision of Johann Ferdinand Hetzendorf von Hohenberg.

Neptune Fountain at Schonbrunn Park, Vienna, Austria
Neptune was the name given to the Greek God, Poseidon.  He married a water nymph, Amphritite and had a son with her named, Triton.  He was the brother of Jupiter (Zeus) and Pluto (Hades).  After the defeat of their father Saturn (Cronos),  the siblings divided the world into three.  Jupiter took the sky, Pluto took the underworld and Nepture the sea.  Neptune was knowm for being temperament.  Earthquakes and violent storms are signs of his furious rage.  He is depicted to be bearded, holding trident and seated on a seashell drawn by seahorses.



The Neptune Fountain is situated at the base of the hill, between the Palace and the Gloriette.  We see at the center of the rocky grotto a larger-than-life statue of Neptune, trident in his left hand and a nymph on his left.  On his right kneels, Thetis, the Greek goddess of sea was requesting for Neptune to favour his son, Achilles,  who set off to conquer Troy.



Achilles was known to be the Greek hero at the Trojan War and central character of the novel, Iliad by Homer.  He was the son of a Greek sea nymph, Thetis and of King Peleus of Mymidons.  Thetis had been wooed by Zeus and Poseidon until they were warned by a future thinker, Promentheus, of a prophecy that Thetis would bear a child who would be stronger than the father.  The two Gods thereafter, let King Peleus to marry Thetis.



At the foot of the grotto are the Tritons, half man and half fish who belong to Neptune's entourage



Triton is the son of  Neptune and Amphritie.  He is a mythological Greek god, the messenger of the sea.  His parents are the god and goddess of the sea.



The shell trumpets the Tritons are holding could create fear both to men and the beasts.


The Tritons tame and restrain the sea horses who draw the carriage of Neptune's voyage across the sea.




The Neptune Fountain was one of the overall design commissioned by the Empress Maria Theresia in the 1770s.  Excavations for basins were completed in 1780, before the death of the Empress.  The fountain was designed by Johann Ferdinand Hetzendorf von Hohenberg and the group of larger-than-life marble statues were executed by Wilhelm Beyer.  The trees behind the fountain were just planted during the 19th century


Neptune Fountain is a common architectural design in the 16th to 18th century.  Neptune driving across the sea domineering the water element is a symbol for monarchs controlling the destiny of their nations.
We just came down from Gloriette when this photo was taken.


The uphill climb to the Gloreitte was not tough.  Steep and rocky though.  From 1560, this place was a hunting lodge, deer park with the Katterburg mansion.  The place was known as Schonbrunn in 1642 during the time the dowager Eleanora was redesigning the estate.
If you do not want to pay for the entrance to go up to the Gloriette roof,  you could sit on the grass, watch the tourists pass  by and enjoy the view of Vienna and the Schonbrunn Park.  The 3.80 euros though up to Gloriette rooftop  is  worth for a better view.


Vienna's Arc de Triomphe

Crowning Schonbrunn on the crest of the hill, a gorgeous triumphal arch monument.  The glorious Gloriette was built in 1775 as a tribute to the victory of the  Hapsburg in 1757 over the Prussians at the Battle of Kolin.  It was the last structure built at the Schonbrunn Park.  It was previously a small pond located opposite the rear view of the palace.


Gloriette, Schonbrunn's jewel. crowned by Hapsburg eagle, surrounded by trophies guarded  lions.


Gloriette was originally built in 1755.  It was totally restored in 1994~1995.
The inscription reads Josepho II, Avgvsto (Augusto0
et (and)
Maria theresia Avgvsta (Augusta)...
The Augusto and Augusta refers to Emperor and Empress respectively following the Roman titles.  Apparently, the Habsburgs were the  last  heirs of the Holy Roman Empire 



Two large basins in front and behind the Gloriette serve as reservoir, feeding the Neptune fountain
View from the crest. Who else want to pay $$$ for a view from the roofdeck


There is a Panorama train that goes around the park, stops at nine stations including the Gloriette.


A few flight of steps to get to the inner hall.  Arranged on the staircase are two  statues of Roman armour both with shields back facing each other, statue lions by their side.  The central section, the inner hall was once a dining hall of the Habsburg family and once the breakfast room of Franz Josef.  At present, the hall houses the Gloriette cafe.


A viewing terrace with balustrades at the rooftop overlooking the Great Parterre ,Schonbrunn Palace and the North-Western part of Vienna.


view of the long avenue of trees from the Gloriette viewing platform.

Gloriette Observaton Platform
Entrance fee:  3.80 euros
Opening hours varies

Nov~Mar  8am~5pm
15 Apr~Jun 30    9am~6pm
Jul~Aug              9am~7pm
Sep                      9am~6pm
1 Oct~27 Oct      9am~5pm
28Oct~4Nov       9am~4pm

Most of the attractions are closed in winter.


Looking down onto the huge stunning garden, the fountains, the basins, sculpted hedges, the palace,  the tall structures in Vienna... such a magnificent view!!!  it comes with a fee though.

Schonbrunn Panorama Train, Vienna, Austria




On each side of the Great Parterre are two main diagonal avenue of trees intersects at the round open space.  Both  sides have the Naiad Fountain, a pool in the middle of the space with a sculpture of the Greek Mythology, Naiad.  The   two fountains and the avenues of trees form the star-shaped system of  the mixed French and Baroque garden style Schonbrunn Park, the Great Parterre being the center axis.

Naiad Fountain at the western side of Schonbrunn Park, Vienna, Austria
by Christian Wilhelm Beyer
In Greek Mythology, Naiads are nymphs and a female spirit presiding over freshwater bodies such as fountains, ponds and lakes.  In the pool, the Naiad is playing with putto and sea creatures

Naiad Fountain at the western side of Schonbrunn Park, Vienna, Austria
by Christian Wilhelm Beyer
The fountain  at the western side of Schonbrunn park  is a  round basin (previously at the center of the Great Parterre until 1772) is  placed in an  existing star-shaped rondeau.

Naiad Fountain at the eastern side of Schonbrnnn Park, Vienna, Austria
by Christian Wilhelm Beyer
The Naiad Fountain at the eastern side of Schnonbrunn Park is a round pool aligned to the Obelisk fountain.

Naiad Fountain at the eastern side of Schonbrnn Park, Vienna, Austria
by Christian Wilhelm Beyer
In the pool, the Naiad plays with  putto  and waterbird.   The water fountain is coming from the bird's beak.


At the end of the eastern part of the park is the Obelisk Fountain.  It could be reached from the backside of the palace through these long avenue of sculpted trees.  We see a round basin in the center with one of the Naiad fountains in the middle of the pool.


The Obelisk fountain,  located at the eastern part of the Palace Garden, is one of the  attractions in the park that can be visited for free.  The fountain is  enclosed partly by a retaining wall with vases on top of a balustrade.
The impressive 31m high Obelisk represents the domineering power of the Hapsburg monarchy.  It's like the only one that could approach  the sun without getting harm.  At the peak of the obelisk is an eagle over a golden sphere that symbolizes the power to mediate the heaven and earth.
The Obelisk fountain was designed by Johann Ferdinand Hetzendorf von Hohenberg and executed by Christian Wilhelm Beyer and  Benedikt Henrici



The Obelisk stands on the back of the turtles symbolizes the stability of the Hapsburg Empire. As inscribed,  it was erected in 1777 during the reign of Empress Maria Theresia.  Obelisks were inspired by the ancient Egypt.  It was where the Pharaohs wrote their greatest achievement.  There are character symbols covering the Obelisks at Schonbrunn, Egypt's Heiroglyphs, believed to be telling the history of the Habsburgs.


The Obelisk stands on a rocky mountain grotto surrounded by sculptures of the River Gods. The water flows out from the mouth of the mask at  the  center of the grotto and the water poured from the vases held by the River Gods  go through the three basins and thereafter to the fountain pool.


Statues of the River Gods holding a vase pouring water placed at the bottom on the left side of the grotto.  The water drips to one of the three basins mounted on the grotto and thereafter to the pool.


Statues of the River Gods holding a vase pouring water placed at the bottom on the right side of the grotto.  The water drips to one of the three basins mounted on the grotto and thereafter to the pool.

Taubenhaus (Columbary) at Schonbrunn Park, Vienna, Austria



The tall Taubenhaus or the Columbary was constructed between 1750~1776. Dovecote, pigeon loft... it was also called the Schonbrunn Merry-go-round because of its circular design and the radial paths when viewing the doves/pigeons.  Four alcoves around the birdhouse for roosting space.  Roof is like a dome covered with wire mesh.  The Columbary was completely renovated between 2009 and 2010.  It is presently housed by the pigeons and maintained by the Vienna Zoo.



The Park was really huge. We were not able to see all in one day.  Some of the attractions we did get to visit were some of the small fountains and the Roman Ruins.  The other attractions with a fee that we did not go to were the Privy and Orangerie Garden,  Palm house and the Desert house



When we were leaving the park, we saw this  girl in black walking like one of the royals but without entourage.   She may be one of the visitors at the park or part of  Schonbrunn park's atttraction :).  Nevertheless,  all eyes on her for a second.


Live statue outside the Schonbrunn Palace.  This could be her job or sort of charity work, pretends to be statue with a medium tin at the bottom for donation.


Statues of Sphynx and lions across the Schonbrunn Palace.


It was getting late.  We still went to Bratislava on this day.  We still have a reason to go back to this beautiful city.  We have not fully explored the Museum Quarter.  We did not have time to go to the Town Hall.  The Prater as well as the Hundertwassenhaus.  We plan to go back during Christmas season... hopefully!!!

check out our half day visit to Bratislava, an hour by train from Vienna.
continued from the  Vienna: St. Stephen Cathedral, Kunsthistrisches


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