We have heard much of Christmas Markets in Zagreb, the very best of the best, ranked #1 for the last three years. We could not miss it even Croatia is not yet a member of the Shengen. Nevertheless, special visa was not required as long as we have a valid Shengen Visa. The Christmas booths are all over the city centre from the Ban Jelačić Square to the King Tomislav Square. There could be more though, we just covered those places after our visit at the Upper Town.
We left Vienna at 9:30am. There was a border control after passing Slovenia. We got off the bus for passport checking. Not more than half an hour we were back in the bus headed to Zagreb.
I have originally purchased our tickets from Nomago for an overnight trip leaving Vienna at 20:15 on the Christmas day and expected to arrive at 5am in Zagreb. I have purchased the premium seats. During the time I have purchased the tickets from Nomago for €70.46 for 4 passengers, Flixbus schedule was not available yet then. And I was thinking, the day trip is 5 hours and such a waste of time spending so much time in the bus during the day. However, I kindly regret the trip schedule from Nomago because of the inconvenience. 8 hours overnight in the bus, we could be restless when we arrive Zagreb. Fortunately, 2 months before the trip, Nomago cancelled the trip and was sending me a voucher I could have used in the future. I sent an email if I could use the voucher to purchase trip from Flixbus with schedule the earliest on 26 December. Nomago promptly replied with the ticket from flixbus. Actually, Nomago first purchased 25 Dec schedule in the morning. I told them we were still in Vienna then. Nomago cancelled the Flixbus tickets with the 25Dec date and purchased the 26Dec tickets for us. I have received a voucher for the 25Dec cancellation. I was so thankful for their prompt action and I have sent to them by email the Voucher I have received from Flixbus. Not so big deal though, I just realized when we boarded Flixbus for the trip to Zagreb that we only have the regular seat. I forgot to request Nomago to purchase a good seat for us because it's 5 hours travel. Anyway, a bit cramped though, the travel went smoothly as our previous travels with Flixbus. Further, the change schedule was of an advantage, we had more time in Vienna, had a good sleep and had not worried where to stay with our luggage, our accommodation would only be available from 2pm.
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| Autobusni Kolodvor Zagreb |
We had arrived the Bus terminal in Zagreb on the dot, 35minutes past 2. I first checked money changer with a good rate. I finally find one, not in the open area. Then we had purchased tram tickets at the nearest newsstand in the terminal four 30 minutes single fare ticket each 4HRK or 90¢ in SG. I suggest not to buy the tickets in the vehicle itself, they only see single fare ticket costs 15HRK..
Apartment Ega, the place we had stayed was few minutes away from the Ban Jelačić Square n foot. We had paid €144 for 2 nights, good for 4 guests. More so, it was stone away from a mall, Centar Cvjetni.
When we went inside the mall, it was like the place knows we were hungry. We have not had our lunch yet. It was too early for dinner though there were variety of dishes to select. The food do not look foreign to us and prices are reasonable. There are almost everything inside the mall: Konzum Supermarket, Department stores, Pharmaceuticals and more.
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| Cvjetni Trg or the Flower Square |
The other side of the Cvjetni Mall leads to the Cvjetni Trg or the Flower Square.
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Petar Preradović trg |
Next to the Cvjetni Trg or the Flower Square is the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Lord and the statue of Petar Preradović, a Croatian poet or romance and Military General, stood on the square named after the poet, Petar Preradović trg.
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| Bogovićeva street, Zagreb |
It was like all the streets were filled with booths that offer Zagreb's traditional cuisine, Christmas drinks and souvenirs. Colourful street lights lit up above the stalls lined on the street of Bogovićeva street in Zagreb. Long row of wooden stalls selling handmade crafts, knitted accessories, Christmas decorations and more.
It was past 4pm after our early dinner. The sun had set. We went to hear mass at the Zagreb Cathedral. half kilometer from our place. The Cathedral is a Catholic church dedicated to the Assumption of Mary. It is the tallest in Croatia designed in Gothic architectural style. The soaring twin spires considered the Cathedral the symbol of Zagreb as the spires are seen from most places in the city. The history of the building could be traced as early as in the 12th century. The spire that is being restored, the one from the right, had been damaged by the earthquake in March 2020 amidst the COVID pandemic.
In front of the Cathedral is a Marian column.
Zagreb's annual tradition during the advent, live Nativity Scene shown with live actors and live animals right next to the Zagreb Cathedral. Shown during the advent three times everyday from 4pm to 7pm.
Backdropped by the defensive walls and towers around Kaptol, built in the 15th century.
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| Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) |
Ban Jelačić Square is transformed in a Magical place during the advent. The Manduševac Fountain was covered with Christmas wreath. Fairy tale decorations along the beautiful buildings designed in a different architectural style.
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| Trg bana Jelačića (Ban Jelačić Square) |
Christmas Market at Ban Jelačić Square fully lit up during the magical season in Zagreb. The place has turned to a fairy tale adorned by the colourful lights ornamented by the magnificent Cathedral's spires and the classical buildings in different architectural design influenced by the elegant Viennese.
Ban Jelačić Square is a pedestrian area though it is also the main hub of the trams. This was where we alighted when we arrived Zagreb from the Autobusni Kolodvor Zagreb (main bus station) and walked to the apartment for about 10 minutes.
Donji Grad (Lower Town/Downtown) starts at Ban Jelačić Square and in the Ilica Street.
Zagreb Christmas Tram offers sightseeing tour from Ban Jelačić Square for 25 minutes at 25HRK. We did not board the train Am I happy to just have a photo with it.
Good Morning Zagreb! Set to wander till we drop.
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| Ilica Street at the Donji Grad (Lower Town), Zagreb, Croatia |
Ilica Street at the Donji Grad (Lower Town) is the main shopping street in Zagreb. Our youngest was happy she found the shop of the pair of boots she had seen in the internet. She was afraid it could run out of stock she immediately purchased a pair even we have not started yet our stroll.
Zagreb is divided into two districts. The Gornji Grad (Upper town) and the Donji Grad (Lower Town/Downtown. Both towns are explorable on foot especially from the place we had stayed at the Donji Grad. A short walk away from where I took the photo above is the cobbled and narrow street towards the Gornji Grad, the Tomićeva ulica (Tomiceva street)
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| Tomićeva ulica towards Zagreb Funicular, Croatia |
As we entered Tomićeva ulica (Upper Town) , off Ilica Street (Lower Town), we were welcomed by a beautiful view of the historic Zagreb Funicular and the Lotrščak Tower. This Funicular, 66 meters long, is the shortest public transportation in the world. It connects Ilica Street (Donji Grad) with the Strossmayer Promenade (Gonji Grad). We opted to walk-up to the Upper Town.
Walked up to the Gradec at the Gornji grad (Upper Town) Zagreb started at the Strossmayer's Promenade. Latter is one of the oldest places in Zagreb located along the ruined medieval fortress of Gradec. Formerly called Southern Promenade until it was renamed in 1875 after the bishop of Dakovo, Josip Juraj Strossmayer.
The fortified tower, Lotrščak Tower, was built in the 13th century to guard the southern gate of the Gradec Town Hall. The name was derived from the Latin campana latrunculorum, "thieves' bell". At present, the ground floor of the tower serves as Information center of the town and the succeeding floors houses old photos and the Cannon gric. More so, offers panoramic view of the Upper Town open to the public for a fee.
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| Strossmayer promenade |
Strossmayer's Promenade offers the view of the Gradec at the Gonji Grad
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| Donji Grad skyline, view from the Strossmayer's Promenade |
View from the Strossmayer's Promenade, the red roof top houses in the Gradec Upper Town, Zagreb.
For a cheap fee, I had climbed the Lotrščak Tower. Below were the views from the tower.
View of the Church of St. Mark and St Cyril and Methodius Church(left), and the red roof top buildings along the Ćirilometodska street. One of the buildings, in baroque facade, houses the museum of Naïve Art
Zagreb Cathedral and St Mary's Church at the Kaptol. Kaptol and Gradec are both part of the Gonji Grad (Upper Town) district.
View of the St Catherine's church and its church tower, Zagreb Cathedral, St Mary's Church and the Church of St Francis of Assisi.
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| The Cannon of Grič in Zagreb |
It has been a tradition in Zagreb, a gunshot is fired at noon everyday announcing the time to the people in Zagreb.
The history of the Cannon dated in 1876 which was fired every noon to let the churches' bell-ringers throughout the town the exact time. Its usage was stopped after in 1914, during the World War I. It was considered an old-fashioned way as it may not give the exact time, likewise, short-age of gun powder. In 1927, the old cannon was renovated and supplied with appropriate ammunition. Thereafter, fired again at noon time. However, it did not last a year. The cannon was too small now since the town had grown bigger. It was replaced by a bigger one that was used till 1973. A special time regulator was acquired from Switzerland to have an accurrate time. The gunner received a call seconds before noon and fired announcing noon to the people in Zagreb for 45 years. The cannon was replaced by a new one and was used until 1987. Zagreb was given a new cannon, the one left by the Allies at the end of World War II which is still in use at present.
St. Catherine's Church was the most beautiful in the Upper Town. I believe it was under renovation when we were there.
St Cyril and Methodius Church is a Greek Catholic church built in 1885, designed in neo-Byzantine style.
The Greek Catholic church has a bell tower and the facade was decorated with mosaiics depicting saints.
St. Mark's Square is the main square in Gradec. Located in this area from left: Banski dvori (Croatian Government residence), St. Mark's Church and the Croatian Parliament (Sabor). The square holds an historical event whereby the leader of the peasant revolt in 1573, Matjia Gubec, was coroneted with iron crown in front of the church. This event angered the Croatian peasants and continued to battle for freedom and equality.
The Stone gate was the eastern gate of the Gradec in the medieval times. Currently houses a shrine to the painting of Virgin Mary and Child inside the gate. Mounted on the western facade is the hero of the 18th century novel, Dora.
In 1731, a heavy fire destroyed the stone gate except for the painting of the Virgin Mary and the Child. People believed it is miraculous, visit the place to pray, light candle and leave flowers.
Zagreb's Winter Wonderland at the King Tomislav Park. Both adults and the kids enjoyed the long skating rink installed throughout the park.
The famous Dolac Market is still part of the Gonji Grad (Upper Town) district. It is located in the center of the city, behind the main square, Ban Jelačić Square which is part of the Donji Grad (Lower Town) district
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| Zagreb Cathedral, Kaptol, Gonji Grad |
We were nearing the end of the Gonji Grad District. The Zagreb Cathedral is located at the Kaptol. Latter and the Gradec forms the Gonji Grad District.
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| Kaptol, Zagreb |
The Church of St. Francis of Assisi in Zagreb is at the Kaptol, part of the Gonji Grad (Upper Town)
During the advent, Live Nativity show takes place at the Kaptol next to the Zagreb Cathedral.
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| Defense Wall in the Kaptol Area |
Towards the end of the 15th century, the Bishop of the Zagreb who like governed the Kaptol, had a fortification built as defense against the Turkish Invasion.
Part of the fortification was being used in the Live Nativity show. The show was performed for three times every night during the advent. Do you see the rustic clock mounted on the fortified wall? Captured in front of a tree. Its time halted to 7:03, the exact time of the earthquake in 1880
The Live Nativity Scene right next to the Zagreb Cathedral is one of the highlights of the Zagreb Advent. Live actors of the people of Bethlehem, real baby as baby Jesus in the crib, the three wise men and farm animals.
Back to the Donji Grad (Lower Town/ Down Town), at the central of the city and the most important square in Zagreb. We literally walked around the Upper Town, didn't we?
The Donji Grad begins at the main square, Trg Jelacic (Ban Jelačić Square ) and ends at the Glavni Kolodvor (Main Train station). The Ilica Street is also part of the Donji Grad District.
Our Christmas Market experience on this day was opted not to join the crowd at night. They were all opened but not as lively as at night. Our flight to Frankfurt the next day was very early. Notwithstanding, we covered the cute wooden stalls from the Main square down to King Tomislav Square.
Christmas Market Experience on this day started at the fairy tale like at the Main Square, Trg Jelacic.
A prominent chocolate company in Zagreb dressed the square like a themed park in Disneyland.
The Christmas Markets in Zagreb are explorable on foot since they are sprinkled throughout the city especially at the Lower Town. The city is full of life. Lots of people walking around, stopped and checked what the tiny wooden house selling and like me, curious what was the long line in a stall. The smell of the homemade delicacies, grilled sausages and the mulled wine was very tempting. People standing around enjoying the food and drinks while having a good chat.
Trg Jelacic (Ban Jelačić Square) is a popular meeting place of the people in Zagreb notwithstanding huge and always packed. The magic expressions: {meet you under the clock" or "meet you under the horse" Under the clock refers to the white clock on the west side of the main square. Under the horse refers to the equestrian statue of Ban Jelačić in the center of the square
Christmas Market at the Strossmayer Park where the Zagreb advent called Fuliranje or Fooling Around take place. It was around noon time when we were here. Most of the crowd were still asleep. This place is popular for those with good vibes. Live music and performances while enjoying the mulled wine with your group. Everyone is encouraged whatever you want to do. Fool around, laugh out loud, dance, sing... as long as it would not harm anyone.
Christmas Market at the Zrinjevac Park with Classical concept. Tiny wooden huts lined along the park where you could try fresh baked pastries and hot chocolate. Cultural events take place at the old Pavilion located in the middle of the park every night throughout the advent.. At night, this park is stunning with all the surrounding trees lit up with decorative Christmas lights
King Tomislav Square was named after the founder and the first King of Croatia, Tomislav. A monument for Tomislav, a statue of the king on horseback, was installed in the southern end of the square across the Glavni Kolodvor (Main railway station)
At the northern end of the square is the Art Pavilion, venue of the high-profile exhibitions.
Zagreb is truly worth to visit when in Europe. An elegant city but not expensive. We covered all the places in our itinerary. We had enough of the Christmas Market food, we got something to eat from the Cvjetni, the mall near our apartment. At the Konzum, the supermarket at the mall, we bought flavoured coffees and teas. We got the idea from what was in the apartment left for us by the owner. Further, just to share with you, Zagreb is not a Shengen member yet though, we were able to claim tax rebates from the pair of shoes our youngest had purchased earlier.
We went back to Germany the following day. We had visited another three cities before we went to the Alsace Region in France. We do not suggest bus or train travel from Zagreb to our destination. We flew with Lufthansa to Frankfurt. It was 27 December 2019 on this days. We were in Europe till 06 January 2020.
See you in Frankfurt!
Continued from Christmas in Vienna
Continues to A quick stop in the Altstadt (Old Town) Frankfurt Am Main, Germany with family 28 December 2010
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