From the half-day visit to Schonbrunn in Vienna, Austria, we traveled to Bratislava by train. Boarded the train with our luggage at Wien (Vienna) Central station, in an hour, we were in a different country. Bratislava is the capital of Slovakia. The city borders two sovereign states, Hungary and Vienna. .Train transfer between the two capital cities is frequent, every hour. Bus transfer is more frequent. We could have opted for the scenic Danube River cruise but it would be inconvenient with our luggage.
From Bratislava we were to transfer to Prague. We were supposed to take the night train but... this was where the horrible experience... we have a separate post on that... As much as I am excited to share our visit to Bratislava, a bit pain still there. Nevertheless, the city has unique way to mark its presence and existence in Europe. Hope to learn more of its history as we continue. There is a left luggage at the city's central station, Bratislava Hlavna Stanica. 2 euros for 15 kgs & less, 2.50 euros for more than 15 kgs. Opens from 4am to 11:30pm. There are also self storage lockers. Our prepaid booked night train with de-luxe cabin was to depart at 11:04pm. We arrived Bratislava around 4pm. Sunset was past 8pm. We had enough time to go around but not as far as the castle and the Danube.
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| Ticket Machines at Public Bus Stop, Bratislava, Slovakia |
Above photos were taken at night around 9pm. We were so early waiting at the station only to not to be able to get in the train. Anyways... what happened to my sequence? Few lines we were leaving the station during the day, suddenly it's night time... Moving on... We never realized we had taken so many photos that are really worth to share. So much at the Old town. Before we get there though, a stop at the Presidential Palace and Garden.
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| Grassalkovich Palace (Presidential Palace), Bratislava, Slovakia |
Grassalkovich Palace is the residence of the President in Slovakia. It is located at Hodzovo Namestie in Bratislava, 15 minutes on foot or 8 minutes by bus from the Hlavna Stanica (Bratislava Main Station). In front of the palace is the Planet of Peace Fountain with a 3 meter globe at the center embossed with doves, supposedly the messengers of peace.
Bratislava is the capital of Slovakia. The city was known as Pressburg in German and Pozsony in Hungary. The name of the city was settled to Bratislava in 1919. Slovakia was under the Austro-Hungarian until they declare independence in October 1918. A sovereign state in Europe was then formed, Czecho Slovakia. Latter peacefully dissolved in January 1993 and split into Czech Republic and Slovak Republic. During the World War II (1939~1945), the two were separated. Czechs allied with the Germans and the Slovaks were under the protection of the United Kingdom and its allies. After the German invasion by the Russians, CzechoSlovakia became a socialist state under the domination by the Russians. Further, CzechoSlovakia was a member of the USSR (Soviet Union). In 1988, Gobachev as the Chairman of the Supreme Soviet of the Soviet Union, liberalized the members of the Union by relinquishing control of East bloc, allowed latter to decide their own internal affairs. Following this development, most members overthrown the Communist Party in the elections and later declared their country independent from the Soviet Union. Seen the inevitable, Gorbachev resigned as the President of the Soviet Union on 25 December 1991 and on the same day, the Soviet Union was declared ceased to exist by the Supreme Soviet.
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| Grassalkovich Garden in Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
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| 1983 Fountain "Radosť zo života (Radosť)" (Joy from life (Joy) |
A copy of the equestrian statue of Empress Maria Theresia at the Grasslkovich Garden. I thought it's the Pragmatic Sanction of 1713 on her right hand.
Bratislava, formerly known as Pressburg, was a coronation city during the Autrian Empire. Empress Maria Theresia was crowned in St Martin Dome in 1741. There are a few statue depicting the empress though in Bratislava, neither street nor square were named after the Empress.
The Slovaks, as well as the Czechs have been under the ruling of the powerful empires for the lomgest. They were liberated though from Aistria-Hungary empire, they were under the dominance of the Communist Soviet Union after World War II, Russian as the leading country. It had been a long struggle for them to completely gain independence. Bratislava has yet fully recovered from the number of destruction brought by war but constructions are currently on going and gradually restoring historical buildings.
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| Swetlikov Dom and the Muzeum policie SR at Stefanikova, Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
Opposite the Presidential Palace is Swetlikov dom, one of the few historical buildings survived, a Neo-Renaissance apartment built in the 1870's located along Stefanikova and part of the Starometska street, Bratislava, Slovak Republic.
Next to Swetlikov dom, along the Stefanikova is the Múzeum polície SR. It is a facility in Bratislava that houses the valuable documents of the origin of the security policies from the Austria-Hungary Monarch to the first Czechoslovak Republic and the documentation of the development of the police and security bodies at Slovak Republic.
Overlooking the Michaels gate and Trinity church as we walked along the Starometska street from the Hodzovo Namestie.
View of the fairy tale like Bratislava Castle while we were crossing to the Trinity church. It is a 10 minute walk or could catch Bus 203 from the Hodzovo Namestie stop. We did not go there though. We only had few hours till sunset. And we did not have enough energy, we only had sandwich for lunch at Schonbrunn before we headed to Bratislava.
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| Coffee shops and Bars along Hurbanova Street, Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
From Hodzovo Namestie, we cross the Starometska street. Walked straight along Suché mýto street to Hurbanovo street and did a right turn to Zupne street. A total of 5 to 7 minutes to the Trinity Church.
Buildings along Namestie SNP, the street after the Hurbanova street, seen before we turned to Zupne Namestie.
The Trinity church is on the Zupne street. Still part of the Old town in Bratislava. The church can be also address as Trinitarian church but not incorrect to say Holy Trinity church. Its full name Church of Saint John of Matha and Saint Felix of Valois.
The Trinity Church is situated in front of the Michael's gate. The St Micheal church was once on this site which was demolished in 1529 during the Ottoman war. The Trinity church was built to see better the coming of the Turks. The interior of the church was said a copy of that of the St Peter's Church in Vienna. It's beautiful inside.
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| Michalska Street. Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
From the Trinity church, we wallked back to Hurbanovo Namestie to the next block and turned right to Michalska street. Michalska street leads to the towering 51-meter Michael’s Gate.
The building on the left is the Museum of Pharmacy, a former pharmacy called Red Crayfish now housed the Museum of Pharmacy. The classicist style museum with theme of healing is supplemented with the containers used for storing medicines: glass, china and wooden.
Don't forget to look up to see the Michael's tower.
Michael's gate is one of the few original fortifications that were still preserved. It was also one of the four gates in the medieval times, the city was surrounded by heavily fortified walls.
Michael's gate is one of the few original fortifications that were still preserved. It was also one of the four gates in the medieval times, the city was surrounded by heavily fortified walls.
Passing through the gate was like we were in a different era. And the crowds we were looking for were here. It was very lively compare to outside this gate.
Michael's gate houses the Galeria Nova, a gallery of glass objects.
Michael's gate houses the Galeria Nova, a gallery of glass objects.
Michael's gate was built in the 1300s. It was reconstructed in 1758 into a baroque style, adding the statue of St Michael and a dragon on its top. The tower houses the Museum of Arms of Bratislava City of Museums.
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| Kilometer Zero in Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
Most of the European cities and a few of outside the continent are on the Kilometer Zero of Bratislava that is located under the Michael's gate. It is written on this gold marker how far you are away from home.
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| Michalska , Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
We seldom joined local tours to explore the cities we are visiting. We want to do what the locals do. Taking the public transportation or drive the city on our own.
Old towns are common in Eastern Europe. It is the heart of the city. It is where you find most of the tourists. Majority of the language spoken are not the locals'.
It had been a tradition for the Bratislavians to walk from the Micheal's gate down to the Danube at Sunset. Afterwards, they walked back and mixed with the crowd. Such practise is known as Korzovanie. Latter was banned during the communist era. Public assemblies were prohibited. Patrolling policemen then would be alerted once a large group was noticed. The historical main square was fenced by a high metal.
At the end of Communism, it took almost a decade before the Bratislavians had recovered and renewed the traditions. In 1997, the mayor organised an annual Kozovanne event which is celebrated to-date. The historical square and buildings started to be restored. Streets were filled with pubs, cafes, bars and restaurants. Live music out on the streets.
Cobblestones and Alleyways at the historical town in Bratislava surrounded by historical humble buildings that are now used to accommodate tourists.
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| Mirbach Palace and the Church of Annunciation, Old town, Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
Mirbach Palace was built from 1768~1770 and was named after its last owner, Count Emil Mirbach. The count was killed by the Russian in 1945 and his palace and art collections became government property. The palace was renovated in 1975 and currently houses the Galleria Mesta Bratislavy or the Bratislava City Gallery.
Church of Annunciation is a Franciscan church that was consecrated to the Annunciation of Mary. It is the oldest church in Bratislava, built in the 1200s. Behind the church is the Franciscan Monastery.
Nearby is the St Francis square
St Martin Cathedral
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| Žena s krčahom at Františkánske námestie Fountain of a nymph with a vase at Franciscan Square Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
I was checking out some fridge magnets when I saw this unique design of a manhole cover below the Žena s krčahom. I wonder its relevance to the historical place.
The Marian column on Franciscan Square, in front of the Jesuit church, Church of the Holy Saviour is one of the pillars built and erected by the Habsburgs in several places of monarchy as a reminder of the Catholics victory against the Protestants. The design was inspired by the Marian column at Marianplatz in Munich, Germany.
As inscribed on the pedestal of the pillar, the column was built in 1675 by the then Emperor Leopold I, King of Hu1ngary (from Habsburg Dynasty). It is a symbol of the victory over the rise of the Hungarian Protestants rebels during 1670~1671. The Marian Pillar was placed in front of the church built by the Protestants to emphasize further the victory of the Catholicisms. The church was taken over by the Jesuits. On the other three sides of pedestal are: Embossed Coat of Arms of the Kingdom of Hungary, Relief of a pair of angels carrying the Eucharist chalice and an inscription of the position of the column.
During the coronation of Emperor Maria Theresia in 1741 as the new Queen of Hungary, Maria Theresia stopped in front of the column, kissed and thanked her patron.
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| Františkánske námestie (Franciscan Square) in Bratislava |
Franciscan Square was known as Dibrovo Square during the Communism period. On this area of square is the Church of the Most Holy Saviour, a Jesuit Church next to the Town hall that is part of the Main Square, .In front of the church is the Mariánsky stĺp (Marian pillar). Opposite the church is the Miestodržiteľský palác (Host Palace), the entrance faces the Main Square.
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| Marian Pillar on Franciscan Square, Bratislava |
During the coronation of Emperor Maria Theresia in 1741 as the new Queen of Hungary, Maria Theresia stopped in front of the column, kissed and thanked her patron.
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| Hlavne Namestie (Main Square), Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
The tall Old town hall dominates the square, situated between the Jesuit church and the Apponyi Palace now houses the Bratislava City Museum. Opposite to Jesuit church is the Miestodržiteľský palác, known as Host Palace with the Mariánsky stĺp (Marian column) in the center. At the center of the square is the Maximiilian fountain, also known as Roland fountain.
There is so much in the square with little time, we decided not to go as far as the Danube and UFO. The Leopold”s gate is opened 24 hours and is just around 7 minutes on foot. It is one of the gates to access the Bratislava. Walk to the UFO from the square could take half an hour and over through the pedestrian lane of the 430-metre SNP Bridge over the Danube.
The Old Town Hall is the oldest city hall in Slovak Republic. The tower offers a view of the city and believed it was built in the 13th century,. Several buildings were joined together to form the town hall: Pawer's house, Apponyi house and the Ugher. In the medieval years, the houses were built with tower to provide protection and safety from fire. Over the next centuries, the town hall underwent restoration, modificaton and enhancement. Its present structure dominates the Hlavne Namestie (Main Square) and the Primacialne Namestie (Primate's square). The Old town hall houses the the Bratislava History Museum. Latter exhibits the Pressburg history, paintings, dungeons, torture instruments, weapons and armour, Bratislava's Festivals, Concerts and Christmas markets are held in the Town Hall.
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| Hlavne Namestie, Bratislava, Slovak Republci |
Japanese Embassy at Hlavne Namestie (Main Square. on the side of Radničná), Old Town. The building was formerly use for administrative purposes in the past. The ground level are now gifts and souvenirs shops.
Jesenákov palác (Jesenik Palace) houses the Greece Embassy. The building is on the side of Rybárska brána (fisherman's gate)
people loved to listen to the street musicians while having their coffee.
At the center of the Main Square are the Palace of the Hungarian Banking and Exchange Bank (Uhorská eskontná a zmenárenská banka) and the Palugyay Palace, by Viktor Rumpelmayer, 1882-1883 prominent family date back 1200.
The Palace of the Hungarian Banking and Exchange Bank is also know as Roland. This Art Nouveau style palace was built in 1905 and completed in 1911, replacing the 15th century smaller building owned by the Auer family. At present, the ground floor houses the Roland Cafe Restaurant and the whole building is occupied by the Kooperativa.
The building at the corner side of the Main Square and of Zelená street is a Neo French Baroque style built for the Paluďai (Palugyah) family, rich and successful wine entrepreneur for almost 100 years. After the Uprising and World War I, the Palugyay business gradually declined. The assets were auctioned in 1939 to pay off accumulated debts. At present, the ground floor of the Palugyay Palace at Hlavne Namestie occupied by Schokocafe Maximilian Delicateso and SKLO Porcelain. I am not sure the functions of the upper floors. The Palugyay Palace at Hlboká cesta is currently used by the Slovak Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs
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| Napoleonic Soldier at Hlavné Namestie, Old Town, Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
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| Veľvyslanectvo Francúzska (French embassy). in Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
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| Františkánske námestie (Franciscan Square) Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
Next to the French Embassy is the Miestodržiteľský palác (Host Palace) , its other side opposite the Jesuit Church on the Františkánske námestie (Franciscan Square).
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| Schoner Naci by Juraj Melus in 1997 |
On the corner of main square and on Rybárska brána, stood a statue of a happy gentleman raising his hat known as Schoner Naci. The man depicted was a real person in the 20th century. He was born Ignac Lamar in Petrzalka (then Hungary)/ He was the son of a shoemaker and grandson of a clown. He used to wander Bratislava with a particular stretch from Michael's gate to the river, greeted everyone and bowed to the ladies and tell them I kiss your hand in German, Slovak and Hungarian . He spread happiness in the city, the people gave him food for free. He did work as a cleaner to support himself. Schoner died in 1967 of Tuberculosis.
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| Bronze sculpture Cumil "Man at Work" by Viktor Hulik in 1997 |
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| Panska street, Old Town, Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
At Panska street, a bronze sculpture of a cheeky peeping Tom poking out of the sculpture man hole. You won't miss it, Cumil is popular. Many stops to see it closely and have a picture. Be careful at night when the sculpture is less popular, you might stumble on it. The sculpture is known as Cumil, Man at Work created in 1997 to brighten up the area who had been under the communist for decades.
We had our dinner at the Roland's Cafe Restaurant. The drinks were served first. Mixed of lemon and berries.
I had schnitzel and fries.
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| Laurinská street |
Laurinská and Panska, Main Square neighboring street are as lively and crowded as the Michalska street.
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| Laurinská Street |
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| Galeria Nedbalka at Netbalova ulca |
At the eastern part of the old town, about 10 minutes walk from the Hlavne Namestie, is the Church of St. Elisabeth, also known as Blue Church. Latter is a Hungarian Secessionist Catholic Church named after the daughter of King Andrew II, Saint Elisabeth of Hungary who grew up in the Bratislava Castle (Pressburg Castle). Andrew II was the King of Hungary and Croatia between between 1205 and 1235.
St Elisabeth was married to a Landgrave of Thuringia (same level as count or duke) Louie IV when she was 14 and had three children. She was widowed at 20. She vowed like a nun and into celibacy. She sent her children away to receive dowry which were stopped when her husband died. She used the dowry to continue helping the poor and sick people. Elisabeth of Hungary and Thuringia was canonized in 1235.
Going back to the Old town, it was Saturday. Looks like a Ghost town So quiet. Without a doubt, this place would be busy as the building shown is the Základná škola a Gymnázium s vyučovacím jazykom maďarským or Hungarian Primary School and Grammar School on Dunajska street
An interesting hand paint on the wall of a building along Dunajská. Part of the building is occupied by amadeus damska moda, trade of female clothes
Back to old town, behind the Main Square is the Primate's Square
There are two narrow passages lead to the town hall to the main square
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| New City Hall in Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
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| Primate's Palace |
We did not go inside the Primate's palace though I may say it's really big. It is squared by the streets
of Radničná , Uršulínska, Laurinska and Primaciálne námestie (Primate's Square) the entry area.
Primate's Palace was built between 1778~1781 for Archbishop József Batthyány, Cardinal of Hungary from 1778~1799, following the design of Melchior Hefele. The President of Slovak Republic temporarily resided in this Neo-classical Palace prior to Grassalkovich Palace, the President's permanent residence since 1996. Currently, the Palace serves as the seat of Mayor of Bratislava and administered by the city council of Bratislava.
Why named Primate's Palace? so I have checked the dictionary what does Primate means... a higher priest such as Archbishop or Cardinal who has precedence over the dioceses (collection of local parishes) in Pressburg (Bratislava). On the roofline of the palace are statues that represent the human qualities and achievements of the Cardinal. Crowning the palace is the coat of arms of Archbishop József Batthyány, as the first occupant, and 150kgs iron model of his hat. The Cardinal was a patron of baroque art in Hungary.
The Palace is open to the public as a tourist attraction for a small fee. The palace was bought by the Bratislava government. During the reconstruction in 1903, they had discovered a rare collection series of six 17th century English tapestries which were hidden behind the wallpaper in the foyer of the Hall of Mirrors. The tapestries were woven in the Royal weaving workshop at Mortlake, near London operated by the Dutch, Phillip de Maecht. Were the tapestries commissioned by the Cardinals? Why were they hidden? Until now it is not clear how did the tapestries get to Bratislava.
The series of six tapestries depict the love story of Hero and Leander. Hero was the virgin priestess of Aphrodite and Leander is from the other side of the Hellespont. They met in the carnival and had secret meeting from then on. Hero was to remain a virgin and cannot marry. Each night, Hero would leave a lamp in the window and Leander swam across using the lamp as his guide. One stormy night, the strong waves slowed down Leander. The lamp in the tower was blown by the gusty wind. Leander lost his way and drowned. Seeing the lifeless body of Leander, Hero threw herself off the tower in grief and died.
The Palace's Hall of Mirrors witnessed the signing of the fourth Peace of Pressburg in 1805, ending the War of the Third Coalition. The signing was the result of French victory under the ruler, Napoleon I, against the Holy Roman Empire during the Battle of Austerlitz. Austerlitz was once a territory under the Holy Roman Empire and at present one of the cities in Czech Republic. A very painful event for the then proud Holy Roman Emperor Francis II from Habsburg-Lorraine family in Austria and one of the powerful who had occupied most of Italy and the German speaking countries except for Switzerland. The Treaty of Pressburg required the Holy Roman Emperor to cede his claim and holdings in Italy and Bavaria to France. Francis II was spared of Vienna and the Salzburg. Austria had also paid 40 million francs to France.
In 1806, 16 states of the Holy Roman Empire were encouraged to join the Confederation of Rhine formed by Napoleon. I The members state established their Kings and Princes followed by withdrawing from the Holy Roman Empire. Left with the inevitable, Francis II abdicated as the Holy Roman Emperor on 06 August 1806. Apparently, the Holy Roman Empire was dissolved after a thousand years of history. Thereafter, Francis II became Emperor Francis I of Austria.
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| Primaciálne námestie |
Bratislava Tourist Information Center is located behind the Old town hall, across the Primaciálne námestie along Uršulínska and corner of Klobučnícka- the main entry.
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| Uršulínska Street, Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
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| Laurinska Street in Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
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| Laurinska Street in Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
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| Laurinska Street in Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
Along the Laurinska Street is the popular Arthur's Ice cream who is also famous of large que.
The Slovak National Theatre, Divadlo Pavla Országha Hviezdoslava (DPOH) is also at the Laurinska street, with the Chodník Slávy (walk of fame) -
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| Rybárska brána (fishermans gate), Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
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| Rybárska brána (fishermans gate), Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
This street was once the Fisherman's Gate, one of the defensive gate of the city. The gate was built in the 14th century mainly for the city's inhabitants: fishermen, craftsmen and butchers who lived in a suburban area. In the next centuries, the gate has been restored for a few times and apparently, at present, the gate was already fully demolished and the area is now one of the lively streets in Bratislava.
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| Maximilian Fountain/ Roland's Fountain, Old Town, Bratislava, Slovak Republic |
A 16th century fountain with 9 meters in diameter circular tank is one of the important features at Hlavne Namestie. It was constructed in 1572 by the order of the King of Hungary, Maximilian II for the people in the Old Town to have a source of water in case of a fire. Stand in the middle is a statue of King Maximilian II.
Others believe the statue depicts the Knight, Roland, a defender of the city's rights. The statue faces turned towards the Old Town Hall. But every New Year's midnight, the statue rotates, faces the Old Town Hall in honour of the twelve councilors who had died saving the city. More so, on Good Friday, the statue moves on all directions, waving his sword, showing them that he is still there protecting the city. It is said, only the real bred citizen of Bratislava could see the knight. I guess the statue does not move anymore on Good Friday. Residents of Bratislava could be mixed of other race.
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| Jesuit Church, Old Town hall, Bratislava City Museum |
By 9pm we had stopped walking. We had stayed at the Main square for less than an hour. I regret though, we could have continued walking to the Leopold's gate, to St Martin Cathedral and the Danube to view the UFO and the bridge even from afar.
We waited for the bus at Zochovo. Getting to the bus stop from the Main Square was a bit scary, very quiet, the crowds were all at the Main Square and the nearby streets. It was past 9pm... I could say Bratislava is safe for tourists. It is fast progressing and recently joined the European Union. Unlike fellow countries formerly under the Communism such as Hungary and Czech Republic, Slovakia adopted Euro as the country's official currency.
We did enjoy our stay in this beautiful city. We missed a few of the major attractions though, We have seen so much in less than a day. We have learned so much about the history of the East bloc. Could not wait for our visit to Prague. Czechs was also once a communist country. We don't know when would be our next visit. We want to try the ferry from Vienna to Bratislava along the Danube.
We were at the Central Station almost 2 hours before the night train came. We busied ourselves browsing our phone while waiting for the night train. Half an hour before the train came, we collected our luggage. 23:01, the train to Prague arrived at Platform 1. 23:04, the train to Prague left Platform 1, Hlavnica Station... without us.😭
For a minute, we were like ??? 🤔 trying to ask ourselves what had just happened. I got a separate post for this unfortunate event.
For a minute, we were like ??? 🤔 trying to ask ourselves what had just happened. I got a separate post for this unfortunate event.
Nevertheless, we should not ruin our trip. We were just in Europe for four days. We should always anticipate the unexpected. We purchased another ticket to Prague, the earliest the following day. We checked in at the nearest hotel, Mercure Hotel, five minutes on foot from the Hlavna Stanica. We did not want to think or care about the additional cost. We instead continued to look forward for the rest of the days of our trip. We had just covered Budapest, Vienna and Bratislava. More cities to visit: Prague, Madrid, Barcelona, Paris, Cinque Terre, Amalfi Coast, Rome, Helsinki, Tallinn. This trip was really packed, few mishaps happened.
Continued to Prague
Itinerary Europe May 2018
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