Saturday 21 November 2020

Holiday Season in Nuremberg, Germany / Christmas Market Experience with Family 22~23 December 2019

Christmas is coming, covid go away!  We cannot go to places as most do during this season.  I am happy though to blog our last year's trip to  Europe, visited the best Christmas Markets and Cathedrals in Germany, Czech Republic,

 Austria, Croatia, France, Switzerland, Luxembourg, Belgium and Poland.   I just finished sharing our experience in Berlin.  This was our second night in Europe and first night in Nuremberg.  I feel like I am still in  this beautiful city with the best sausage I ever had.  I did regret though that I did not continue studying the German language.  Not many speaks and understands English in Nuremberg.   We just have to be patient and not to be sensitive.  Hand gestures and showing the pictures were of help anyway.
Places we have visited in Nuremberg:

Kinderweihnacht, Christmas Market for the children
Königstor city gate
St. Lorenz, Nuremberg, the biggest church in Nuremberg
Christkindlesmarkt, the biggest Christmas Market in Nuremberg
Nürnberg Hauptmarkt – Nuremberg’s Market Square
Gothic Frauenkirche (church)
Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful fountain)
Altes and Neues Rathaus (Old and  New Town Hall)
St. Sebaldus Church, Nuremberg
Kaiserburg Nürnberg, Imperial Castle in Nuremberg
Albrecht Dürer haus

Major Nazi rallies were held in  Nuremberg during the Third Reich ( Nazi regime from 1933 to 1945).  Thus, the city was the most bombed during the World War II.  The medieval city was 90% destroyed in just one hour by the allied forces: the  British and the Americans.  After the war, Nuremberg was restored amicably to its pre-war condition.  More so, the prosecution and trials of the Nazi member after the World War II  was held in the city 


We had arrived Nuremberg at 17:24.  We left Berlin at 14:05 on the same day, 22 December 2019.  I had purchased the tickets as soon as it was opened for booking on 15 October 2019.  Normally, we could book 3 to 6 months before the date of the travel.  But for the season period  travelling from 15 December to I think till 31 December, the booking is not fixed.  We paid the tickets for 4 and sort of first class 159.60 euros.
Nuremberg is one of the cities of the German federal state of Bavaria, the second to the largest after Munich, the capital.   More so, the world's oldest globe could be seen in one of the museums in Nuremberg, the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (with admission fee)



We were booked for two nights at Ibis Nuremberg Altstadt.  The hotel is within the proximity of almost important places in the city.  From the Nuremberg central station, we just walked with our big luggage to the hotel, through one of the historical gates in Nuremberg, the Königstor city gate.  After check in and a quick freshened up, without killing time, zoomed to the Kinderweihnacht


This Christmas market was designed for the children.  There were steam trains, merry-go-round and mini ferris wheel.   There was no kid with us though, we spent our first Christmas Market here.  It was late, there were more adults at that time.


We had tried Nuremberg's  Glühwein (German Mulled Wine).   Not an expert though to compare from what we had in Berlin.  The mugs are not included in the price.  We paid a deposit, 3 euros each.  You could get back the money when you return the cup.  We kept two of the these festive mugs for souvenir.


We tried their Heiße Schokolade – Hot Chocolate too.  Try also the Nürnberger Lebkuchen, gingerbread.


The markets in Germany closed early.  We just stayed in this market.  We just went to the largest Christmas Market in Nuremberg the next day.

For now, Kinderweihnacht is scheduled as follows:

November 27 - December 24, 2020

November 29 to December 23, 2019: 10 am - 9 pm
24 December 2019: 10 am to 2 pm
Venue:  Hans-Sachs-Platz

Keep checking at their website for a change of the opening hours.  The Christkindlesmarkt  which is the largest Christmas Market in Nuremberg has been cancelled for the first time after World War II due to the Covid-19


At the top of every stalls are like story telling featured our favorite fairy tale characters 


Nuremberg Rostbratwurst is the best I ever had.  Only specialized butchers are allowed to produce the Nuremberg sausages.   The recipe is strictly checked daily by the  Imperial butcher and the jury of the head market officers. Wow! no wonder the taste is so unique.  Don't forget the must have drei im weggla (three cute sausages in a bun)

After the visit to the the Kinderweihnacht on our first night in Nuremberg, we went to the central station to get some grocery at the Rewe Supermarket which is opened 24 hours.

Day 2 in Nuremberg,  we just bought sandwich for breakfast at Aldi Sub, a small supermarket in front of our hotel.  Very convenient right?  There was a coffee/chocolate machine.


We aimed to hit the road the earliest.



Neus Museum is just less than 100 meters from our hotel.  The museum was opened in 2000.  Arts and designs displayed in the museum were from the 1950's to the present.


view towards the Königstor , once one of the gates to the Nuremberg city wall.  Königstor is at present one of the main entrance to the Nuremberg Old Town.



view towards the St. Lorenz church.  




Buildings and stores along the way to St Lorenz church from our hotel, Ibis Nuremberg Altstadt


Galleria Kaufhof on the right.



The architectural style of the west facade of  St. Lorenz Church in Nuremberg reflects the wealth of the Nuremberg citizens.  The towers face the towers of the St Sebaldus church located across the Pegnitz river.
St Lorenz was a medieval church during the Free Imperial period constructed in the late 14th century.  It was heavily damaged during the World War II, restored afterwards though. St Lorenz is not a catholic church, rather, an Evangelical Lutheran Church in Bavaria.  The church is under the care of the city council and by the wealthy citizens.



Market stalls around St Lorenz Church


We were on our way to the Christkindlesmarkt.  We were at the St Lorenz district.  Out destination is at the side of the Pegnitz River, at the St Sebald district







Opposite the St Lorenz church is the Nassauer Haus or Schlüsselfeldersche Stiftungshaus.  This is the last residential tower, at present in Gothic style, still in existence in Nuremberg.




Lorenzer Platz on the east facade of the St. Lorenz church.

Lorenzer Platz


Way to Christkindlesmarkt  before crossing the Fleischbrücke (Fleisch Bridge or Pegnitz Bridge).


We opted the way thru Fleischbrücke.  As soon as we crossed the bridge, we were in the Christkindlesmarkt.  
Fleischbrücke is one of the bridges in Nuremberg spans the Pegnitz river.  It was built between 1596~1598 in Renaissance style stone bridge.  It connects the district of St. Lorenz to that of St. Sebald. This is the only bridge survived the World War II.


view from the Fleischbrücke, the museum bridge.

Museumsbrückee is a sand stone, arch bridge over the Pegnitz river.  It connects also the districts of St. Lorenz and St Sebald.  The original Museum bridge was damaged during the World War II and rebuilt in 1954.


A Latin inscription was added in 1599 at the portal of Fleischbrücke.  In English,  "All things have a beginning and grow, but the ox upon whom you now look was never a calf"


It was early in the morning, yet the CROWD!!!

Due to COVID reasons, the CHRISTKINDLESMARKT this year is cancelled

normal OPENING HOURS: 

Nov. 27th to Dec. 24th, 2020

Monday to Sunday

 10:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m.

December 24th, 2020

 10:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.

Children's Christmas Market

 Nov. 27th to Dec. 24th, 2020

Market of the Sister Cities

 Nov. 27th to Dec. 23rd, 2020

Original Regional

 Nov. 27th to Dec. 23rd, 2020


The location of the biggest Christmas Markets in Nuremberg,  CHRISTKINDLESMARKT,  is in the main square at the Old Town.  This place is more known as Hauptmarkt.  Not only the Christmas Markets is held in this square. It does host the Nuremberg’s annual fairs and festivals such as the Trempelmärkte (Nuremberg Flea Market) and the Nürnberger Altstadtfest (Nuremberg Old Town Festival).  Other than these special events, the Hauptmarkt is the biggest daily market in Nuremberg, 


At the eastern side of the Main square is the first Gothic church in Franconia,  Frauenkirche (Church of our Lady in Nuremberg).  The church was commissioned in 1355 by Emperor Charles IV as a court chapel.  The building stood before the Fraunkirche was a synagogue which was destroyed in 1349 during a riot. The Stone Mason who did the building works on the Prague Cathedral was the same selected for the Frauenkirche.  The son of Charles IV, Wenceslas, was baptized in the church in 1361


One of the attractions of the church is the mechanical clock,  Männleinlaufen (Little men dancing).  This clock was built to commemorate the Golden Bull of 1356.  Daily at noon, without fail since 1509, mini theatrical show depicting the scenes from The Golden Bull of 1356  starts as the little gate from the clock opens with seven little men (electors) bow before the mini emperor.


At the south-west of the square is a 19 meter high three-tiered Gothic spire shape, the Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain).  Spin one of the two  golden rings  embedded on the gate supposed to grant your wish.  Get closer, the fountain features 40 colorful sculptured figures which represents the world view of the Holy Roman Empire.  Decorated in the pool represents the Philosophy and seven Liberal Arts.  The first tier from the bottom are the four Evangelists and the four Church Fathers.  In the middle are the  Seven Electors and nine Worthies. At the top is Moses and the seven prophets.
Schöner Brunnen was built in the early 1900's, replicated the original fountain erected in the 14th century.


Last few days of the Christmas Markets when we were there.  It was before lunch time, the place started to get busy.  We had stayed for an hour wandering the lined of stalls and had sausages again.  Rain shower did not stop everyone to enjoy this event.












Next to the Schöner Brunnen is the Neues Rathaus (City Hall/New Town Hall), then the Altes Rathaus or the Old Town Hall.  There were houses/buildings between the Hauptmarkt and Altes Rathaus which were destroyed in the WWII.   It was decided to build the New Town Hall instead in 1951.













Opposite the Altes Rathhaus is the oldest church in Nuremberg, St. Sebaldus Church. As mentioned earlier though, 90% in Nuremberg had been bombed and St Sebaldus Church unable to avoid such fate.  The original building was completed in the last quarter of the 13th century.  Same as the other buildings in Nuremberg, the church was fully restored after the WWII.  St. Sebaldus is the patron saint of Nuremberg, named after the hermit Seebald who in the 11th century built a small chapel at the same site St Sebaldus Church is erected.



View of the west facade of Altes Rathaus and  the east side of the St. Sebaldus Church with the site of the Christkindlesmarkt further down.


One of the three baroque portals of the Altes Rathaus in Nuremberg.

West facade of the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall)

The original Altes Rathaus was built in the 14th century, designed by architect Phillip Gross and painted by Albrecht Dürer.  The Hall was restored between 1956-1962. Beneath the hall is the dungeon where the medieval justice had taken place.


View on our way up to the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle), Nuremberg





It was not a difficult way up with the beautiful sceneries of the  Altstadt (Old Town).


The Kaiserberg is a complex of mediaval fortified buildings on the top of historical area of Nuremberg.  The first building in the castle was built around 1000 and thereafter additional buildings were erected over the centuries.  It was the home of the German Kings and Emperors during the middle ages, thus, the Kaiserberg is an important imperial castle in Germany 















Sinwell tower on the left is one of the defense towers built in the 2nd half of the 13th century.  With its height,  attackers could be immediately seen.



Towards the Heidenturm (Heathens' Tower) and Kaiserkapelle (Imperial Chapel).  These buildings which were built around 1200 remained intact after the WWII.





The Kaiserburg in Nuremberg, situated above the Old Town, represents the medieval strength of the city.



Picturesque view of the red roof tops s in the Old Town from the Kaiserburg.  We were only in the free admission area of the castle.


Luginsland Tower and the Youth Hostels in Nuremberg
Luginsland literally means look in the land was built as one of the defense towers in 1377 near the main entrance to the Burgrave's Castle to monitor the activity inside the said castle by the Nuremberg city
The imperial stables had been converted to youth hostel after the WWII



Very near the Imperial castle is the house of Albrecht-Dürer, an important artist in Germany during the Renaissance.  Albrecht was in communication with the Renaissance artist in Italy: Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael and Giovanni Bellini to name a few.



Albrecht-Dürer's house was converted to museum since 1871. The museum if more of his life and works.


Cobblestone street lined with medieval half-timbered  houses and sand stone buildings in the Old town.  There is an association in Nuremberg formed in 1950 to support the preservation and restoration of the existing houses in the Old Town , thus, prevent from demolition.

Tiergärtnertor Platz
Tiergärtnertor Platz is a small square in the old town near the Kaiserberg and the Albrecht-Dürer-Haus.  Favourite place by both locals and tourists for a coffee break after long hours of the day's activity.











Stone away from the Platz and the Albrecht-Dürer Haus is the Tiergärtnertor.  Latter  was one of the gates in the Nuremberg City Wall




On our way back to the hotel, we bought fast food for late lunch.  Prices were reasonable in this place.  


This pork knuckle was really very tasty and tender.


This was our last night in Nuremberg.  We have a schedule trip to Prague early in morning the following day by FLIXBUS.


After quickly packing our stuff, I went out myself to get something for the dinner and have a look of the city again at night.






On my way to the Christkindlesmarkt, I passed by this scene outside the St Elisabethkirch at the Jakobplatz.  


There you go...  the biggest Christmas Market in Nuremberg at night.


busier compare to this morning.


I know the sausages in Nuremberg are not allowed to be exported.  The must have drei im weggla (three in a bun) were all about this que.  Good thing I brought a carrier.  I got four order, they did not provide me a bag.

See you in Prague!  We went back to Germany on the 28th December, visited Frankfurt, Cologne and Dusseldorf.




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