Sunday 11 August 2019

MADRID walks in a day / Family Travelogue 15 May 2018


North Facade of the Royal Palace view from Sabatini Gardens, Madrid, Spain
Sabatini Garden is a Neo classic style garden.  opened by King Juan Carlos I in 1970.  The site was formerly the stable building of the Palace.  The garden is adorned by a big pond, hedges, fountains and populated by statues of the Spanish Kings.
There are so many places I wanted to see and visit in Madrid.  Only two nights though arranged to stay in Madrid for this trip.  We arrived Madrid on the 14th of May by air from Prague.  The first we did, we bought the Metro card through the machine.  We bought as well airport fare. For those who are into nightlife, you will definitely like Madrid.  Most bars are open till 4 am.  However, we are into sightseeing .  We needed to sleep early for a full walking escapade the next day.  There was a washer with dryer in the apartment we had stayed.  I threw our laundry inside and let it spin while asleep.

Before the trip, I have checked google the means of transport to get to the city from Barajas Airport.  There was one that was never mentioned in which I believe could be advantage for use.  I just learned about it when we were at the airport.  Unfortunately though, I just purchased the ticket from the airport to Nuevos Ministerios with the airport surcharge.  Taking the Renfe train from Aiport to Atocha is cheaper and no airport surcharge.  Our destination was in Gran Via station.  From Atocha, we could have taken then the metro to Gran Via.  We had purchased though the metro ticket.  It was a bit troublesome for us, we did a few transfer.  I thought the metro tickets are accepted at Renfe trains.



We just purchased only one metro card valid for 10 rides within the city.  The card is called Madrid Multi card which mean it could be used by multiple users.  Once I tapped the card to get in to the metro platform, I passed the card to my husband for him to go in too. We did the same when we exited.

We arrived our apartment past 8 pm.  We were booked for 2 nights at Gran Via suites.  We called Gran Via when we were in the train.  I believe it was already closed then and they just had someone to wait for us.  When we got to the apartment, the staff was waiting for us.  The apartment was at Calle de Victor Hugo.  Opposite was a supermarket chain named DIA

Puerta del Sol, Madrid, Spain
On to the walking escapade, the first plaza we got to visit coming from our apartment was Puerta del Sol.  I could suggest to go first to Plaza Cibeles though.  This was in the itinerary we should have done on the day we arrived Madrid. More so, the Crystal Palace at the Retiro Park followed by dinner at Plaza de Sta Ana.   For some reasons we were so long at the airport trying to return the airport transfer ticket we just purchased.  As mentioned earlier, we wanted to take the Renfe train.

Puerta del Sol or gate to the Sun in English is the busiest public square in Madrid.  Located in the center of the city and considered the Kilometer Zero of the city.

The Madrid Clock in the turret on top of the Royal Post, Madrid, Spain
The famous clock in Madrid is located at Puerta del Sol.  It has become a tradition,  every end of year on 31 December, locals wait for the clock to strike at 12 midnight which marks the first day of the year and together eat 12 grapes as the clock chimes 12 times.
The clock was designed by a Spanish who had lived in London, Jose Rodriguez Losada.  He was the same clockmaker who was tasked to finish the BIG BEN in London following the death of the British clockmaker, Edward John Dent.  Latter was  commissioned to make the clock for the House of Parliament.

Gran Via Street, Madrid,  Spain
Gran Via is a very beautiful street in Madrid stretched between Plaza Cibeles to Plaza Espana.  The street is like the Spanish Broadway where  most of the popular shopping centres, theatres and known hotels are situated.  In addition, the notable buildings of the revival 20th century architectural style.


The next stop was Plaza del Callao, five minutes from Puerta del Sol on foot.  You could opt to Plaza Mayor on the opposite direction, four minutes away.  The place is like the mini replica of New York time Square

Buildings surrounds Plaza del Callao from left:  Cines Callao, Edificio Carreon, Palacio de la Prensa,   Madrid, Spain
 Plaza del Callao is surrounded by massive digital billboards and big LED ad /neon signs on tall building   Buildings grab attention most are the Edificio Carreon (Capitol Building), the one with Schweppes neon sign,  and the Palacio de la Prensa.


One of the cinema theatres within Plaza del Callao is the old-fashioned style Cines Callao designed in the sixties by a Spanish architect, Luis Guttierez Soto.  The edifice itself is one of the must see in the square

Inserting history like I do to most of my blog stories...

The square was named after the Battle of Callao in 1866.  Spain assumed victory against Peru.  The war was between Spain and its former colonies in South America:  Peru and Chile.  Spain wanted to still hold control of the Chincha Island that lies off the southwest coast of Peru.  Apparently, the island belongs to Peru.  Latter, as well as the neighbor countries such as Chile and Bolivia, were under the Colony of Spain from mid 1500's to the early 1800's.  It was discovered later the Chincha Island produced guano (used for gun powder and explosive materials).  Peru started to export the materials in 1840.  Spain tried to recover the island that caused the Battle of Callao. which ended in 1866.  Spain had not ended the dispute until in 1874, the Chincha Island could not produce guano anymore.  The peace between Spain and Peru was signed in 1879.

Philippines was also under the colony of Spain for 333 years from 1565 to 1898.  Spanish influences to Philippines are still practised at present.  It was the Spain who introduced Catholicism.  Filipino language and dialects have similarity to Spanish'.  After the Battle of Callao, the Spanish fleets stayed in the Philippines.  Latter is one of the strategic places to ward war weapons in preparation for battles with any country.  Peru was contemplating to invade Philippines to completely get rid of the Spanish fleet.

Like many countries who were occupied by powerful countries for centuries,  Philippines was having a hard time to progress.  Corruption and power grabber is rampant.  More so, despite of the sufferings experienced from the Catholic priests who had used the religion for vested interests,  Catholic is still the majority in these countries,  who were under the colony of Spain and  Portugal as well. I have noticed also that there are practices by the Catholics in the Philippines that are not done by the Catholics in other countries such as the 9 night mass before Christmas.  Nevertheless,  we just respect each other's beliefs.  The once invading Catholic countries did not do the same though.  Temples were destroyed and forced to settlers the Catholic religion.

North-eastern side of the Cervantes Monument at Plaza de Espana, Madrid, Spain
Walking along the Gran Via street for 8 minutes from Plaza del Callao, we were at Plaza de Espana.  The large square is located at the western end of Gran Via street.



Plaza de Espana is dominated by the monument to Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra.  The monument was built in 1915 to commemorate the 300 years of the publication of the second series of the famous novel of Cervantes, Don Quixote.  The square is surrounded by olive trees inspired from the La Mancha fields where the main characters of the novel: Don Quixote and his squire wandered.  The square is further beautified by the view of  the  skycrapers.  The Edificio Espana though was under reconstruction when we were there.

Casa Gallardo




Casa Gallardo was built in 1911.  The  building is an example of an Art Nouveau architectural style.







Torre de Madrid







Torre de Madrid was constructed mid 1500.  Once the tallest building in Western Europe until it was surpassed by the South Tower in Brussels in 1967.










Sculpture of Miguel de Cervantes



A monument for the Spanish Novelist, Miguel de Cervantes.  The author of the legendary novel, Don Quixote.









Sculptures of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza




Joining Cervantes in the monument are the sculptures of the fictitious Don Quixote and his squire, Sancho Panza.  Said were the main characters in the worldwide recognized fiction novel of Cervantes,  Don Quixote
The novel Don Quixote was published in the early 1600s.  Considered the first modern novel, elevating idealism against realism.





At the top of the monument is a globe with the
sculptures of  five women as the  five continents: Europe, America, Africa. Asia and Australia .  All were designed  reading books.  Don Quixote was read all over the world











The statue at the north-eastern side of the monument represents Europe.  A woman dressed in the style of golden age represent the Spanish literature










North Facade of the Royal Palace view, Fountain of the Fishes at Sabatini Gardens


We went down for like 5 minutes and we were at one of the gardens around the Royal Palace.  Sabatini Garden is part of the Royal Palace and was fully opened to the public in 1974.  The garden was named after the 18th century Italian architect, Francesco Sabatini (1722~1797),  who designed among the architectural works inside the Royal Palace and also the Royal stable originally stood at the site of Sabatini garden.

Equestrian Statue of Felipe IV at Plaza de Oriente, Madrid, Spain
On the way to the palace from Sabatini Garden, we could not miss another square with a big garden.  Plaza de Oriente was centered by the equestrian statue of Felipe IV, the horse stands on its two hind legs, the first in the world, copied from the painting of the prominent artist, Deigo Velasquez.  The bronze equestrian statue is a masterpiece of both Arts and Mathematics  The structural needed the scientific advise of Galileo Galilei to ensure its stability.

Monument to King Felipe IV of Spain at Plaza de Oriente, Madrid, Spain
Monument to Felipe IV as a patron of Arts with the view of the East Facade of the Royal Palace in Madrid, Spain.  The statue was originally situated at the center of Retiro Park.  During the reign of Queen Isabela II of Spain, the statue was moved to the center of Plaza de Oriente.

Bas-relief at the bottom of the Equestrian statue of King Felipe IV of Spain situated
at the center of Plaza de Oriente, Madrid, Spain
King Felipe IV ruled Spain from 1621 until his death in 1665.  He was also the King of Portugal as Philip II from 1621 to 1640.  He patronized arts especially that of Diego Velasquez, the Spanish Royal Court's artist.  At the base of the statue, there were two bas-relief panels.  One shows the King presenting the Cross of Santiago to Velasquez.  The other shows the King as patron of the arts.  Four bronze lions added in each corner and two shell-shaped fountain  at the back of the statue with a figure, could be representing the water bodies such as river.

Equestrian Statue of King Felipe IV, bas-relief at the bottom represents King's patronage of Arts
The statue was commissioned by the then king himself, King Felipe IV,  to stand at the center of the then newly constructed Parque del  Retiro Park.  He wanted his monument to be better than that of his father, King Philip III of Spain (reigned from 1598~1621)  erected at Plaza Mayor.


Water falls out from this mounted figure to the shell-shaped fountains down to the pool.

Plaza de Oriente and the view of the East Facade of the Royal Palace, Madrid, Spain
The now grand spacious square, Plaza de Oriente replaced the medieval houses in the area who were demolished in the early 19th century under the order of King Jose I.

Plaza de Oriente Gardens
The garden at Plaza de Oriente is as beautiful as that of the  Sabatini Gardens with hedges and Cypress trees.  It is  surrounded by limestone sculptures of the twenty Spanish Kings.


The Royal Palace of Madrid (Palacio Real de Madrid in Spanish) was the official residence of the Spanish Royal Family.  The palace is currently used for state functions.  It is considered the largest functioning area all over Europe with floor space of 135,000 square meters.  The interior is rich in artworks of the famous artists such as Caravaggio, Goya and Velasquez.  The construction and decoration of rooms are made of fine materials. The palace consists of 3,418 rooms but only a few are open for public for a fee of  €13.

Plaza de la Armeria, Madrid, Spain
Plaza de la Armeria is a square in Madrid situated between the South Facade of the Royal Palace in Madrid and the Almudena Cathedral.

The big clock and the two mast on top of the Royal Palace in Madrid, Spain
View from Plaza de la Armeria or the Armoury Square, on top of the south facade of the Royal Palace in Madrid are a large clock and two masts.  One carries the flag of Spain.  The other one will carry the Royal standard flag when the monarch is inside the Palace..


Beyond the fence that divides the Plaza de la Armeria is not accessible for free.  The area is the extended or outer courtyard of the Royal Palace with series of rooms and offices.  It is also the location of the Royal Armory, the largest weapons museum in Europe.  Most of the museums in Spain do not allow photography.


Plaza Mayor was first built during the Habsburg period (1518~1619) under the ruling of King Philip III.  It was reconstructed in 1790 after a spate of big fire.  Once the center of Old Madrid and was used as the main market in the 16th century.  It was also the place for public executions, bull fights and soccer games
At present the main square hosts important events in Madrid and still the location of the annual Christmas Markets.  During our visit, organizer were very busy preparing  Plaza Mayor for the night entertainment as part of  annual celebration of San Isidro Labrador's day.  San Isidro is one of the patrons of the city, Madrid and festive starts from 15 May and lasts for 8 days

Plaza Mayor is surrounded by three story buildings with the same architectural style.  All the  237 balconies face towards the square.  There are nine entry ways to the square.  A few blocks from the plaza is the Puerta del Sol

At the center is the bronze statue of King Philip III.  We were not able to get near the statue, not so much to share about it.  Nevertheless, Philip III was the King of Spain from 1598 till his death in 1621.  He was also King Philip II to Portugal, Naples, Sicily and Sardinia and Duke of Milan.  He was a member of the House of Habsburg from her mother, the 4th wife of King Philip II of Spain, Anna who was the daughter of the Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian II (reigned from 1564~1576) .  More so, he was married to Margaret of Austria, sister of the then Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand II (reigned from 1617~1619, 1620~1637).

Chocolate and Churros at Chocolateria San Gines in Madrid
One of the favourite breakfast in Madrid, Chocolate and Churros.  We had it at Chocolateria San Gines.  The place was very to Plaza Mayor.  This meal is served the whole day, not just for breakfast.  We had ours actually after lunch.

Museo del Jamon, Madrid, Spain
Musel del Jamon is a a market shop full of various Spanish hams with few branches all over the city.  There's one at Plaza Mayor and Calle Gran Via 72
.


Our next stop was Museo del Prado.  When we checked google, it was 20 minute walk.  I thought of taking a train.  We took the blue line from Plaza Mayor and got off at the Neptuno station.

What do we see at the Neptune Fountain in Madrid?  Neo-classical sculptures in white marble of the god of the sea holding a trident on his left, stood on the carriage being pulled two hybrid horse with fish serpentine tail.



We arrived late at Museo del Prado.  We had a booked entry ticket.  However, in few minutes, the museum opened for public for free.  Anyway, we did not join the queue.  Photography not allowed inside.  The art works inside were truly amazing.  I would go back there if given a chance.  Goya, Velasquez, Reubens, Rembrandt among the other featured known artists.  Las Meninas of Velasquez is one of the highlights.

San Jerronimo el Real
(Jerrome Royal  Church)















Apparently, the museum was closed. I think we only had an hour visit, the museum closed early.  Nevertheless, I was able to attend mass at the Catholic Church behind the museum, San Jeronimo El Real (Jerome Royal Church)
North Facade of the Museo del Prado, Madrid, Spain



The sculpture of Francisco Goya  (1746~1828) stands before the north facade of the Museo del Prado.  Goya was very successful during his lifetime.  He was an important artist during the 18th to 19th century, between the end of the old masters works and the beginning of the modern works


Vertical Garden outside the Caxia Forum, Madrid, Spain

On our way to Reina Sofia Museum from Prado Museum, we passed by this beautiful vertical garden outside the Caixa Forum Museum.  Latter houses modern art works by the artists from the 1980's.  The vertical garden was  created and  designed using his Le Mur VĆ©gĆ©tal system  by Patrick Blanc 

Museo Nacional de Arte Reina Sofia, Madrid, Spain
We checked how to get to Reina Sofia Museum for our visit the following day.  We did not want to waste finding how to get there since we were to fly to Barcelona.


Atocha Station, Renfe, Madrid, Spain
Atocha Renfe station connects Madrid to Barajas Airport, Terminal 4.  We had left our luggage inside, for a fee,  before we visited Reina Sofia Museum the following day.  This station connects Madrid to other cities of Spain such as Barcelona via high speed train.  It was a big mistake we flew from Madrid to Barcelona.  Such a waste of time when the train at Renfe could take us to Barcelona for 2 hours without the hassle of airport check-in.  Atocha Renfe Station also has daily services to Marseilles, France.  I am now thinking of another trip to South:  Portugal, Spain and South France






Mercado de San Miguel
Mercado de San Miguel or San Miguel Market in English is a century old building  where you can find the popular Spanish gastronomy such as the Iberian ham, cheeses from Castilla among the many.  The market is 200 meters away from Plaza Mayor.





The visit to the Reina Sofia Museum was on the next day, 16th of May, before our flight to Barcelona.    It was opened at 10 am.   We checked out around 9 am.  We walked down to Gran via metro.  There was neither lift nor escalator, we descended through the stairs with our luggage.  We took the Line 1 (blue) towards Valdecarros and stopped at Atocha Renfe station.  We dropped our bags at the left luggage for a fee.  We then walked for about 6 minutes to Reina Sofia Museum.

  GUERNICA (1937)  at Museo Nacional de Arte Reina Sofia, Madrid, Spain

The original copy of the most popular art work of Picasso, Guernica,  is at the Room 206 of Museo Nacional de Arte Reina Sofia, Madrid, Spain.  I actually spent the whole time of our visit staring at this amazing mural,  visualized the detail.  The painting was about the consequence of the Spanish Civil war (1936).  Picasso was in Paris when he created this painting, completed in 1937.  Photography was not allowed.  My photo was taken from the item I bought at the souvenir shop.

Spain was under the dictatorship ruling of Francisco Franco Bahamonde from 1937 to his death in 1975.   He led the coup d' etat against the constitutional Republic in 1936.   Franco then allied with the Germans and allowed the bombing of the Guernica town to test German's aerial bombs if it could wipe off a city or town.  Loss of lives estimated at 1,650 of the 5,000 population of Guernica at the time of the attack. Some were just visiting the town.  Picasso's denouncement of the horrifying war was expressed  through painting a mural he called "Guernica".  The large painting in oil canvas was completed in June 1937.  Picasso placed the painting under the care of MOMA in New York.  The painting had traveled around the world before and after the WW2 to raise funds to support the Spanish refugees.  Frequent travels weakened the painting, the loan exhibitions ended in 1958   In 1968, Franco made effort to bring Guernica to Spain.  Picasso demanded liberty of Spain.  Apparently, Franco did not agree.  Picasso died at age of 92 in 1973.  Franco died two years after at the age of 82.  In 1978, Democratic Constitution had been adopted in Spain.  On the 9th of September in 1981,  Guernica was home in Spain from then on.

Pablo Picasso was born in Spain but spent most of his adult life in Paris.  His works are scattered in Europe and USA.  We were able to visit his museum in Barcelona- photography not allowed.  We've seen also his works displayed in Paris.  There are a few in Lucerne we plan to visit in January 2020.  His controversial work, 1907 Les Demoiselles d'Avignon, housed in MOMA, New York.





Off to Barcelona via Vuelling Airlines
Check out visit to Prague before we flew to Madrid

Europe Tour 2018













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